Garden Chronicles of James David

Characteristics:
Leaves appears to be smaller and span out further between leaf nodes.

Variegation of the silver spots appears to be more sparse.

This appears to be like more of a green leaf with light grey silver spot on them.

(This appearance is the reverse of 'Exotica' )

The plant is easier to be identified when the foliage is smaller - the colors therein appears all green with few silver spots- hence this is how it is able to be identified that this one is Scindapsus pictus 'Argyraeus'

More information about Silver Pothos - Scindapsus pictus 'Argyraeus'

I had seen this particular plant growing in the wild here in Malaysia, the plant however is a heavy creeper crawling on leaves debris and also trailing on tree trunks but the condition of the foliage appears to be rather sad where a lot bitten marks appear on the foliage.

In the wild, these plants climb high up on the trunks attaching on the tree barks with strong aerial roots - the foliage formation too morph more oval and stronger coloration when they grow bigger. Their leathery foliage seemed to have a succulent feel with dark green coloration with slight shiny silver spots glimmering in the dark shade.

Pictus meaning painted - this particular variety have those spots and splashes indentified as such.

Often the common name is a misnomer - it is named as Pothos but its characteristics and behavior is far from it - it is very sensitive and very different from pothos, philodendron or Epipremnum aureum needs & care. It doesn't grow well in the same conditions in which those plants thrive.

There is nothing much to worry about if you purchased this plant where the plant had established itself with good roots system and many leaves and vine. All you have to do is just maintain the watering regime and placing the potted plant in a bright shaded area.

The challenge is far greater if you just received a cutting.

For example:

You can start cuttings - rooting them in shallow water like what you can do with some philodendron trailing species (heart-leaf philodendron / Brazil) & Epipremnum aureum types (golden pothos)

All of these does root vigorously & grow well except for Scindapsus pictus cuttings:

The rarely took root - and often slowly succumb to rot at the cutting edges and may turn the leaves yellow.

Even if potting them directly after cutting them - you may not able to see immediate growth progress, rather the foliage slowly rolled inward and dying. Eventually it drops off all the leaves and the bare stalk remained and after many weeks - I was able to see a new shoot appearing.

This happens for like 1 out of 5 cuttings - very low chances of survival.

I wouldn't recommend this to be rooted in water - rather there is more success when layering the trailing rooted vine on another pot and let it take rooting in them and trimming it off - separating it from the mother plant have greater success than placing it into water or direct cutting.

There is another thing about this strange happening that may take place with a healthy potted plant.

After purchasing this plant for about 3 months plus - suddenly you find that the plant is slowly fading and dying away - facing root rot.

When you open up the whole root-ball - you started noticing all the roots had rotten away and wondered what happened?

Basically, the medium of which this plant is planted were cocopeat and the whole composition had turned hardened but mushy when watered. You will also find the medium smells rotten. By then, it appears to be too late as all you will have rescued is some of the trailing vine with aerial roots attached at the surface.

And so, What I often do is to reset and re-plant the plant after few weeks once the plant had acclimated in my garden and remove the medium (100% cocopeat) with a mixture of (50% existing medium with perlite, sand, sphaghum moss and coconut chips)

Too much water can kill them - therefore keeping the medium moist but not dripping wet is essential. It is best not to place them with a water saucer underneath the pot - it works for most pothos species but not for this one - rather treat it more on a drier side and water it when the medium is slightly dry.

Also Oscmocote (a tiny spherical fertilizer) a few pieces of it added on weekly basis - a slow release fertilizer seemed to be the best for them.

More mature leaves do tend to grow more elongated and also change it's appearance if it is fastened upon a pole or a totem for it to climb and trail upon.

Once the plant had established itself - there is nothing much to worry about.

Do click on the link below to view other types of Scindapsus and their Care & Maintenance:

Scindapsus pictus - Best Indoor Plants

Characteristics:

Like most Piper species - famously known as a Betel Leaf. Locally known as (Sirih Merah) meaning Red Betel Leaf. Also known as Celebes Pepper, this particular one is very similar to a common green types but more cultivated for it's ornamental features.

It has a glossy heart-shaped leaves with pointed tip, The upper surface is olive green heavily spotted with pinkish-orange very much evident along the main veins on the foliage. The underside of the leaves are in deep maroon colors.

Piper crocatum is a vine endemic to Peru, South of America, most commonly found in the lowland tropical rain-forests, but can also occur in clearings and in higher elevation zones.

Piper ornatum (Sirih harimau)

Another local type (Sirih harimau) Piper ornatum has more of a rounder shaped leaves and spaced out spots on the foliage - this one is endermic to Indonesia & surrounding regions which highly sought after for it's medicinal values.

This is a slow growing plant and may easily die if proper care is not given. The Care and the Plant behavior is very much like Scindapsus species (Satin Pothos) where it prefer nothing of any extremes.

However - it does thrive more to a bright shaded side with few hours on morning sun. Also it does well as a ground trailing plant rather than a hanging potted plant.

Based on my experience,
I would consider this one as a medium difficult level in comparison to most trailing plants.
They do tend to grow slower and may easily rot if no proper care is given but once the plant is stable and show its sign of growth, it will spring forth with vigor and robust growth.

These do have a iridescent sheen that appears like florescent reflection when viewed in an angle.

I wouldn't recommend it for beginners especially if you had received a cutting or trying to propagate it. I had many trial and errors with this one and find that a well established full grown plant fair well compared to cuttings for this one.

Yet, if you are open for a challenge and already have the rest of the piper in your collection and if you are planning to complete that collection - this would be a great accomplishment.

Basic Care and Cultivation:

Potting Mix:

50% potting mix together with coconut chips. I find this medium is very safe and low risk compared to so many that I tried before. The coconut chips had be trimmed in small bite size pieces and slightly packed with top soil (basic potting mix)

OR

50% potting mix together with with perlite, sand, sphaghum moss and coconut chips

It is important to NOT to over-pot the plant - do keep this plant compact and let it overgrow the pot slowly and re-pot to another pot slightly bigger.

WATERING:

Too much water can kill them - therefore keeping the medium moist but not dripping wet is essential. It is best not to place them with a water saucer underneath the pot, treat it more on a drier side and water it when the medium is slightly dry.
Because of this potting medium - I really do not have to worry so much about over watering as the medium is fast draining.

FEEDING:

I find this is very important - a wrong fertilizer can kill this plant and the whole this over: The stress and the leaf drop and burned leaves - It is too late to undo the mistake.

I would really recommend to pay attention to use of fertilizer - do not use any strong fertilizers on them, rather work on with the light and weak application of the feeding regime and slowly notice how the plant reacts to the growth condition and maintaining it to an optimum level is really helpful.

I for one use: Osmocote and alternatively use seaweed solution for good strong root growth. I also realized that this is a slow growing plant and so a lot of patience is needed.

LIGHT:

I keep this is in a bright shade area - too hot and may burn the leaves, too shaded and the leaves will turn to yellow as lacking sunlight.

PROPAGATION:

The most ideal, high success rate of propagating this one would be air layering and letting the roots to trail to another potting mix and once the roots established - the plant can trimmed of from the mother plant. I find it doesn't not fair well when it comes to cuttings - they do tend to rot and wither away.

As I had mentioned, this is a slow growing plant and may require a lot of patience. The can suddenly die and disappear away and so - do keep them in a visible spot where it is not totally hidden.

This a collection of begonia plants:

Showcasing: Begonia - Acetosa & Begonia Phuthoensis

The foliage characteristic and iridescent sheen

Also Begonia Bushing Bush - trailing tall along the fence

Other collection of mop wick begonias -

Iron Cross Begonia, Silver Limbo, U497, U578, Floccifera, Art Hoders, Speculata, Fireworks, Silver King, Candy Stripe, Lalomie, Chivary & Luzonesis

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Garden Chronicles of James David

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This is my May 2020 Update.

Most of the begonias in my collection are slowly regenerating back to their former glory - the ones that survived from last month update:

In this collection - Lettuce Leaf Begonia (Begonia 'Erythrophylla Bunchii'), Begonia - Acetosa growing on sphagnum Moss medium.

The ones propagated on small containers:

Begonia - De Elegan, Begonia - U497, Dragon-wing Begonia followed by Burning Bush Begonia, Martin Mystery.

The ones on the Water Pot (Aquaponic Mop-wick system) Here in this set-up are :

Begonia Chivalry, Begonia Fireworks, Begonia Silver Limbo, Begonia Jolly Silver, Begonia 'Lalomie', Begonia - U578, Begonia - U514, Begonia - Luzonensis, Begonia Aquamarine.

Begonia growing on Soil Medium Begonia - U497, Begonia - Floccifera, Begonia - Speculata, Begonia - Candy Stripe, Begonia Art Hodes, Begonia - Silver Jewel, Begonia - U309, Begonia - Bethlehem Star, Begonia - Manaus, Begonia - Phuthoensis,

Cane Begonia Types:

Begonia Aya, Cane Begonia - Bushing Bush, Cane Begonia - Maculata wightii, Cane Begonia 'Albo-picta', Cane Begonia - Borneensis, Cane Begonia 'Albo-picta var rosea', Cane Begonia - Cracklin Rosie, Cane Begonia - Castaway

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This is my Collection of my Aquatic Plants that I cultivate in my garden.

I'm featuring on these 2 Black Taro - Colocasia esculenta 'Black Magic'& Colocasia esculenta 'Black Ripple' - the difference between both species.

Also Pennywort (Hydrocotyle umbellata), Water lettuce & umbrella papyrus (Cyperus alternifolius) together with Mexican Sword Plant (Echinodorus palifolius) These are growing on open sunny area.

Here in the collection:

Imperial Taro - Colocasia esculenta 'Illustris', Variegated Canna-Lily, Colocasia esculenta 'Teacup' together with the collection of Caladium. These are in semi-shade

The Fish-Pond:

Here I cultivate inside a water feature setting where it is receiving a running cascading water. I think it works best with a water movement rather than stagnant water especially when it comes for Caladiums, Philodendrons, Pothos and Monstera species.

The plants that I grow here are :

Epipremnum aureum - 'N Joy', Epipremnum aureum - Golden Pothos,

Philodendron Hederaceum "Micans", Philodendron - Lemon Lime / Philodendron - Ceylon Golden, Philodendron - Brasil, Monstera adansonii (Cheese-Leaf Plant) , DragonTail Plant (Epiprennum pinnatum) & Arrowhead Plant (Syngonium podophyllum - Pink)

Also growing well - Blue Taro - Xanthosoma violaceum.

One of the exciting moments in my tiny garden is my fish pond which is always burst with life and colors - there is no end of discovering something new in this feature.

Here I enjoy taking care of my goldfish with few life bearer fish like guppies, platties and sword-tail fish. The sound of tricking water truly calms the soul and the serenity of aquatic loving plants just add favor to that ambience.

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Characteristics:

This is a Sweet Potato Vine but more likely cultivated for ornament purpose. This particular one does so well in shaded area - compared to the purple colored foliage which prefer direct open sunny areas - this one doesn't do well in direct sun.

It has a lovely neon green glow coloration when cultivated in shaded area that gives that subtle glow especially planted together dark shaded plants.

Also, this is a slow growing plant and also leaf eating insect & (snails & slugs) seemed to attack on these tender shoots and leaves - so they still do need attention & care on this foliage.

ID:

"Margarita" or "Marguerite" sweet potato vine (Ipomoea batatas "Marguerite")

grows well as cascading basket plant too. I don' allow it to grow long and leggy and therefore trim and propagate them, keeping them short and compact.

MEDIUM:

I find that they can do well in all soil types - basically I use regular potting mix and more on a fast draining type of medium. These plants grow together with my other hanging pots and plants - as I just trim and poke them in between creating a combo plant combination together with tradescantia species and other colored foliage plants.

WATERING:

Regular daily watering - this is not so sensitive and able to handle watering well.

LIGHT:

I grow this in my shade garden as I find the foliage are very interesting - similar with neon pothos or lime green philodendron - these neon tones are very vibrant that it adds that color in my garden.

FEEDING:

Weekly foliar spray - they are slow growing plant and so they don't overgrow or become invasive rather stay put in their planted spots. Unlike the purple colored ones where it grows unruly and invasive - these are slow growing plant.

Other than that, it is a great plant to plant in between empty spots in between begonias and tradescantia species.

I grew this outside and it grew well but it slowly became dormant and I had managed to quickly trim and replant all of the shoots and stem - here and there. The result of all the plant cuttings (pictures shown above are from this main plant (pic.below)

This is my Latest Pictures of this Sweet Potato Vine where the pictures are more clear on the shoot development - especially the coloration of the tender foliage stem at the crown. The colors are strong and evident at these areas.

Characteristics:

This particular one has a heart shaped leaf formation and a vibrant dark purple coloration on it's foliage. The tender shoot and new forming leaves does have that brilliant purple hue and slowly fades to green tones when turns matured. The bright lighting does play a role on this one, especially if it is exposed to long-day open sun the whole plant leaves coloration will be in total purple.

If in case, in a season in time where it is not exposed to the long sunlight,
eg: during rainy and cloudy days - this plant will be more in green tones.
Similarly it will turn more green when planted in semi-shaded areas.

I grow my sweet potato vine (Ipomoea batatas) solely for ornamental purpose.
They are trailing plant where they form roots at each node section
They do form edible tubers but I doubt it is enough for me or anyone to consume it.

Basically they are ideal for ground cover and does very well in open / direct sunlight area - doesn't fair well in shaded areas as they will turn faded green and loose the colors.

As the foliage matures the colors slowly turned to greener, faded tones of purple and eventually wither away.

This is the back of the foliage where the purple coloration is stronger.

Introduction:

Ipomoea alba, sometimes called the tropical white morning-glory or moon flower or moon vine,
I had planted this one using seeds. The seed resembles a small, brownish nut, and should be nicked with a file and then soaked overnight before planting.
This is a nocturnal flowering plant that I had come to mesmerize with it's white immaculate blooms.

It is just like the Morning Glory where it blooms from morning till evening, this one does it in a reverse order - from blooming from evening till next morning - it is in full bloom by midnight.

The blooms are like satin soft and bigger than common morning glory flower.
The only set back is that it is badly infected with white flies, eventually the plant had started setting seeds and become mature and dies. It was great cultivating it for a season.

It is said that it is a perennial vines but I'm not sure as this plant does died out on
me like an annual as like it had finished it's season, set seeds and die back.

Perhaps it died out because it had faced a heavy infestation of pest particularly white flies on this one that the plant had succumb into stress and died.

Care & Cultivation:

However it is not a fussy plant - just like any morning glory plant types - all it needs is a good potting mix with a trailing space where it can climb easily. It does need good sunlight area for it grow (not recommended to grow in shaded areas) and watering is basically twice a day depending how hot & dry the weather is. Do refrain watering on rainy days.

Propagation:

Do collect the seeds and keep if you would like to cultivate it for the next season as they may tend to die away like some ipomoea species.

NON-FRAGRANCE:

These bloom just last for a night and it gets close shut tight by the morning.
The other thing is both of these flowers do not have any scent. (no fragrance at all)

I had checked some website mentioned that they are fragrant - so I'm not sure if it's a different cultivar or perhaps may elude scent in very cold climate zones.

So - I really not sure how they attract their pollinators.

They do have the common heart-shaped foliage in dark green coloration, the flower buds form at each intervals of the plant nodes.

Blooms are closing in the morning.

Introduction:

I find there is a wide varieties of Ipomoea ranging from a Morning Glory Species & cultivated for their ornament flowers together with Moonflower which blooms at night to crop version of Sweet Potato & Water convolvulus (Kangkung) for their edible tubers and edible leaves where it is normally cooked (not eaten fresh as salad)

Here are some of the Collection of my Sweet Potato Vine.(Ipomoea species)

Do click on the Names on the Pictures Below - links for their detailed information on Care & Cultivation of this Sweet Potato Vine - Ipomoea batatas.

Sweet Potato Vine - Neon Green - Ipomoea batatas

Sweet Potato Vine - Purple Heart - Ipomoea batatas

Sweet Potato Vine - Purple Heart - Ipomoea batatas (Part 2)

Sweet Potato Vine - Dark Green with Purple Tones

Maple-Leaf Shaped Variety - Dark Green with Purple Tones

Moon Vine - Ipomoea alba

Introduction:

I have been keeping this one for years and I had totally neglected them. Occasionally - I would prune and used these cuttings to replant them - poking the stem - here & there to add color in my empty spaces in my hanging pots.

Usually - I will propagate these and give them away as gifts to my friends. I had not realized that I had not paid much attention to this one and plan to put their detailed information on how I care for this plant.

This is a nice cutting - a vine I took to propagate in small pots - easily it will fill up about 3-4 pots.

Characteristics:

Cissus bicolor - Trailing Rex Begonia is actually not from a Begonia species rather it is from a Grape family. This particular one is very much cultivated as an ornament plant for the foliage features - where the colors on the leaves resembles like a Rex Begonia especially the iridescent and the coloration which many similarities.

This is a Vine - a climbing plant with tendrils appearing at the each node sections along with the leaves. And so - do consider as it may need a space where it need to climb and grow. Ideal for placing it around a fence as it will climb gracefully and the foliage facing the sun,

The foliage colors do tend to change colors - when it is placed in shaded area - it will turn more green and when exposed to bright sun - the iridescent silver appearance will be more dominant. It also have a dark burgundy border around the foliage to give a beautiful impression.

Care & Cultivation:

LIGHT:

Similar like a Morning Glory Plant - this one do require good sunny bright area for it to grow. Heavy shaded area may cause this plant to grow leggy and the foliage size becoming small. It will trail and climb everywhere - regardless seeking light or shade as this is a prolific grower - almost invasive given the right condition to grow.

However, it does have a deciduous characteristics at the main vine and therefore do be careful when accidentally pruning it thinking it is a dried dead vine.

MEDIUM & WATERING:

It does fair well like any other hardy plants , all it needs is a good potting mix with a trailing space where it can climb easily. It does need good sunlight area for it grow (not recommended to grow in shaded areas) and watering is basically twice a day depending how hot & dry the weather is.

Do refrain watering on rainy days.

PROPAGATING:

Important:

Do take note which side is the top, the foliage growth appearance does seemed reversed and may get confused when after trimming not able to decide which ends goes into the pot - it is important to note this while trimming and carefully arranging it in proper cutting basically (3-4 nodes with one node - removed of the leaf)

Also placing this on in a semi-shade for 1-2 weeks with very light watering and observe any new growth. Once the plant start showing new growth on it's tendrils - do place in a bright area for it to trail, climb and grow.

PEST:

It is a magnet for mealy bug - I still find them occasionally at the back and the leaf nodes. This is a robust plant and therefore,I don't worry about it. However I find it strange that the mealy bug infestation multiplies in great volume in the absent of the open air and sun and so, the attack can be very severe if this is planted totally indoors when fully shaded.

These are newly propagated in a small pot and the plants are doing just fine.

I had allowed this to grow at the side of my fence where it receive morning sun generously. It also climbs upon my other plants and often I had to do a check and balance in pruning and readjusting the tendrils as it doesn't choke or overwhelms other plants.

This particular plant is actually a singular plant coming from a pot planted from ground. I do recommend to do few cuttings and grow them as spares as they can sometimes totally die on you and may lost the whole species. I would consider this one rare and not many people had cultivated it.

Few of my gardener friends had planted this before and had regretted not having a spare plant. So do consider that factor in mind and plant few spares.

Introduction:

Cissus quadrangularis commonly known as Veldt grape is cultivated as a medicinal plant. This is a climbing plant and very hardy. It really doesn't require much care - as long as it is exposed to sunlight and rain and allow it to climb and grow - it is fairly easy plant that grows without much care. I for one, just allow the climbing stem to fall over my other trailing plant and they can easily co-habit without any competition.

Characteristics: Care & Growth

Cissus quadrangularis grows well with its unique stem - it has quadrangular-sectioned branches with internodes, the newer stems have leaves on them with tendril coming from the nodes.

Since this is a hardy plant - it can grow virtually in any type of soil mix. I would recommend a good potting mix with well drain medium as it will ensure good and strong plant growth.

It behaves more like a succulent type - therefore to not over water it as it may cause stem rot.

Propagation is very easy using the stem cutting and planting it in a potting mix.

As Medicinal Plant

I often give cuttings of this plant for making Chutney, locally known as Pirandai Thuvaiyal.

You can google and find out various recipe in preparing this traditional dish.

I for one, cultivating this for their unique stem pattern - it does serve occasionally when friends comes over and ask for portions of plants for cooking purposes which I often give gladly.

These appear like fruits but they are actually flower buds in red before blooming, though it is from a grape family - they do not form edible fruits like grapes (oh! how I had wished they did)

These angular shaped stem are study and strong. Many clusters appear trailing from this and may become unruly and invasive if not pruned often.

This plant is considered hardy - it even handles well in heavy shaded area.
The whole plant is very much a quadrangular-sectioned branch with few leaves sprouting by the sectioned area.

I had tried hanging it loosely without planting it and it survived.
The base roots appeared everywhere and they just managed to handle for few months.
This is indeed a very hardy plant

I had recently purchased this particular begonia on Feb 2020.

It cost me around RM20-RM30 (Can't recall exactly how much was it)

It is very much like a Cane Begonia - just 4 leaves and very fragile looking.

After given much care on it's growing need it had grown taller and I was in need to put a stake to keep it upright.

The foliage had doubled it's size and also started flowering.

Care & Cultivation:

MEDIUM:

Just like most Cane Begonia species - this one is grown on a medium:

50% coco chip mixed with sand & potting mix. I found this medium used for propagation by the nursery owner - I had slightly added the same medium type and re-pot it in a bigger pot.

So far - the plant doubled it's size.

FEEDING:

I started using 3-4 pieces of Osmocote as fertilizer - 2 week once.

Alternatively I spray root hormone (Seaweed solution) also used another rooting hormone (Vitamin B1) a solution for stronger root growth as these are prone for root rot.

WATERING:

Slightly spray water once a day in the morning and refrain watering rainy days.

I do water twice a day on a dry and hot days - it's depending on the weather.

LIGHT:

This is kept in a bright shaded area, I believe this one will turn more silvery when in total shade and more in the pink silvery crisp tones when in bright shade. It does well in both condition.

New growth - doubled up the size after re-potting in a bigger pot with new medium.

These have a silver sheen with almost crisp feeling with tones of burgundy on it's veins. It does have a fragile composition and a lot of care is given not to damage the leaves.

Other matters are very much similar with the general information about Cane Begonias.

Do click below for more information on Cane Begonias.
Cane Begonia Care & Cultivation information.

ID: This particular one is known as Begonia 'Bunchii',

also known as: Begonia x erythrophylla commonly known as Lettuce Leaf Begonia or Curly Beefsteak Begonia.

It has a Beefsteak Begonia characteristics but more on the frills & scallops at the leaf edges. The foliage is very thick and succulent. It does turn slightly brown in color when exposed more to the sunlight but mostly the foliage is in dark glossy green.

This particular begonia is growing in a sphagnum moss medium - I had not disturbed or plan to replant it as new rhizomes are growing well from this medium. I have been keeping the medium slightly moist without over watering it.

Other than that, this particular one seemed to be looking hardy and strong ever since I had purchased it (Feb 2020). So far - it has been growing very well.

Begonia Common Names and Images

Here is the link where I had put together a list of all the begonias that I had come across. A database of all the different types & their characteristics. Please click on the link on the title above for the post.

Begonia - Aquamarine has a star shaped formation foliage with a splashed grapes like colors - it is indeed very difficult to describe the coloration as you can view the picture above.

However when the begonia grows in shaded area it will be appearing in a green tones. It is a rhizomatous type begonia with green to silver colored foliage.

I tried to propagate this using a leaf cutting on a mop wick system but it was unsuccessful. I may try again once this plant had grown big and had established itself.

Currently I had replanted it from a soil medium into a mop wick system and hoping it will slowly spring back to life, as it was slowing going dormant in the earlier medium.

Only time will tell the progress of this particular plant.

Begonia Common Names and Images

Here is the link where I had put together a list of all the begonias that I had come across. A database of all the different types & their characteristics. Please click on the link on the title above for the post.

Begonia Fedor does have many similarities with so many other common varieties, especially with 'Silver King' and 'Voodoo Star'. I can really tell them apart unless I align them together to note their slight differences.

There are many confusion as their foliage tend to morph with the variation of shades and colors depending on how much light it receives on its foliage.

There is a slight lavender tones at the edges similar like Begonia 'Fireworks' - I think these cultivars are interbreed and their dormant characteristics are showing when they are growing.

This particular one is known as a Rose Begonia also known as Tuberose Begonia. I often noticed this sold during the festive season - normally brought from Cameron Highlands.

I had few bad experiences with this and also checked with few of my gardener's friends who tells me the same thing - that this one is very difficult to cultivate in lowland climate. I believe this one do require cold climate cycle for it to go dormant and regenerate especially like in a temperate climate.

I realized that many people who favor this particular one treat this plant as a cut flower plant - keep and maintain them for few weeks until the flowers are spend. However, I know the plant will survive but slowly will start dropping off all it's leaves and eventually the bare stalks will start to turn yellow and wither away.

There is however, a tuber underneath it and may require it to go through some cold handling - suppose placing the tuber in the fridge for 3-4 months and re-plant the tuber back for the next season. This appear to be like too much work and may or may not be successful - Just my thoughts.

I'm still wondering how are they cultivating these cold temperate plants here in Cameron Highlands, especially these and a few other plants like Fuchsias, Dahlias and Roses. They don't last very long in these hot and dry lowland climate and truly they become sad looking when they start withering away in the heat.

I may got my facts wrong in this particular one but I have yet to come across anyone who had claimed to have a success story in cultivating this one.

I had shifted this more to the direct sunny area as I find the earlier location seemed to keeping these leaves in more of a green shade instead of black tone. Also I had repot them into a bigger - deeper container where there is more room for them to grow.

They had doubled up the size in these full sealed pots - Actually I just used whatever containers I can get my hands on (buckets, recycled paint containers and plastic food containers - all without drainage holes underneath them)

The reason is they do require muddy-like medium where water is stagnant. Without water - the leaves will get burned and dried up.

Also occasionally I placed a teaspoon of Epsom Salt into the container about 2 week once. I have heard comments from some gardeners who use 1 or 2 handful of Epsom Salt into their pot too - but I rather take is slow and steady.

Some of these foliage have a slight green tones due to the rainy season where the days are very cloudy and rarely the sun shine few hours in a day. These days - these leaves revert back to green - like they were planted in shaded area. I'm not too sure whether the fertilizer too have a play on the coloration as I noticed that when I apply the fertilizer - they do perk up in vibrant dark colors too.

Perhaps both play in their part too.

I'm glad that these are doing so fine that I have managed to separate them into few pots and even have given a good size plant for an exchange with other plants. I would consider them hardy once they had established themselves - they tend to put out runners that grow new plantlets once it touch ground (when it is able to self-propagate in new areas)

I had also managed to grow one in total shade and see how it is doing - it appears that it can also grow well in shade but it will be more in green and no appearance of any black tones on them. Also it can handle total aquatic setting very well. I had placed it into a fish container and it is doing fine (minus the colors)

I would definitely will cultivate these into more pots for exchange or give-aways when they had grown bigger. Do check out my first posting on this plant on my experience on this one:

Black Taro - Colocasia esculenta 'Black Magic'

Also do check out the Rest of the Collection of all the Other Types of Colocasia and Taro that I have in Collection:

Different Types of Taro - Names & Images

Kalanchoe blossfeldiana also commonly known as Florist Kalanchoe, Christmas kalanchoe, Flaming Katy, and Madagascar widow’s thrill. Normally sold during Chinese New Year Season as a Holiday Plant here in Malaysia.

I must say these are such a beauty that most gardener's find it hard to resist from purchasing them. They have these beautiful blooms - sprays of colors that last for weeks - just like cut flowers - these tiny rosette like blooms are so dandy.

They are without fragrance however they do come with various colors almost similar with the color tones of roses.

Few factor I must mentioned about this plant growing them in lowland hot climate. They may survive and able to grow nicely with beautiful foliage - but once the flowers with their blooms are over - you may not able to see them back into their former glory once again.

Often many people buy them for their beautiful flowers and treat them like cut flower plants. Once the flowers are done - they are usually tossed away. And so I do somehow consider them as like one time plant: BATA plants - Buy And Throw Away Plants - Usually when the flowers are spend and the plant is already withered away.

These can usually last almost 2-3 months if given proper care - in keeping the blooms long lasting.

These are my tips to Care for the plant.

WATERING & MEDIUM:

Kalanchoe is a Succulent Plant and therefore the first and foremost - must be very careful with watering. Overwatering can easily kill them in within a week or two.

Do check the Medium (usually these come from Cameron Highlands) and they are always planted using Cocopeat - and so, only water them only at the rootbase and not the whole plant - once a week.

The Best would be placing a sauce and water it from downward - letting the plant soaked downside up - rather than pouring the water into the pot. Once the soaking takes place within the day - do not water within a week or check and see if the cocopeat is almost dry.

The Best Condition is to keeping the medium Moist to Slightly Dry - Too Wet for more than few days may cause the root ball to rot and the plant will slowly wither away. At Times - the Plant will tolerate over watering once or twice in a month but if it is going to be on a daily basis - it will definitely succumb to root rot and the whole thing will rot away.

Also - Never Water the Flowers from the Top - Some people may think that it is a good idea to mist them - I would refrain that as it may cause the flowers to have burned marks on them.

Rather only allow water to be poured only at the rootball area and never at the flowers. The foliages however are hardy and they can be occasionally get wet but never the flowers.

LIGHT:

The ideal light will be bright indirect sunlight but most of the time - these were purchased to fashion indoor condition like cut-flowers as they are normally kept until the blooms are over.

Once they are done and the plant usually tossed away but if you intend to continue to keep the plant for their foliage:

These are the tips:

How to Grow Kalanchoe Blossfeldiana Plant - Once it Finished Blooming:

1) Trim off all the spend flowers off - usually they will be dried off stalk dangling at the crown.

2) Remove all the soil medium from the pot - usually it will be fully cocopeat. Roughly break off the root ball and chucks of cocopeat will fall off - if they still wet, it will be like fibrous.

Mix 50% sand with (50% existing cocopeat) mix well and feel the texture of the medium as it should be fast draining medium

3) Cut or remove plant-let shoots and plant them separately - normally there will be 3 or more plants planted together in compact in this small pot. Separating them give them good room for the roots to regrow and establish itself.

4) After about few months when the plant had fully grown - place the plant in total darkness gradually in a month's time. Also do place in a cool place and with good flowering fertilizer for it to shock bloom. It need to shock bloom - one of the ways it to reduce the day light hours it gets.

Eventually you will notice the flower buds will form and from hence-forth a new cycle begins.

PEST:

Been a Kalanchoe - it is also a magnet for pest like whiteflies, snails & slugs - therefore care is also needed as they can do considerable damage if not attend to them immediately.

FLOWERS:

Anthurium andraeanum commonly known as flamingo lily or painter’s palette. These are ornamental plants cultivated for their inflorescence - as these are ariods their flowers are consist of the spathe and spadix.

The waxy heart-shaped colored petal like is known as a spathe - its a shield like leaf and supposedly protect the spadix - the rod sticking out thing - upon this are the tiny flowers that blooms and may form fruits from this erected structure.

Also these can last for many months and always in bloom. The flowers can change in color slowly fading away into green or various coloration based on their cultivar.

There are almost 1000 cultivar and hybrids and more introduced year after year that it may be impossible to keep track of all of them. However - I may say I'm intrigued to note that there are varieties that will be bloom more and behaves hardy in comparison with other cultivars.

Do seek out the cultivar that suits your garden conditions:

Example for my garden - I would need to select the type that is hardy with over-watering (rain) and able to handle shaded and also direct hot sun (spanning both conditions) Also - I may have to select a dwarf variety rather than a big foliage version as I would like them to be grown in a small and compact areas.

Because of these many cultivars and hybrids - I can selectively choose that particular variety that suits best in my garden condition.

Care & Growing:

LIGHT:

This particular type is actually an epipyte which works best as placing them as Vertical Garden Plant - because of this it can tolerate all levels of indirect light, but anthuriums growing in low light will have fewer flowers and will grow slower. These plants cannot tolerate direct light however, as this can burn the leaves. It grows best in bright, indirect light.

The balance of both is required - too much bright sunlight - leaves get burned.

Too less light - over shaded - no blooms.

MEDIUM:

These do best in fast draining soil medium: 50% sand and 50% cocopeat. However these do require fast draining medium good enough to keep the root ball moist but not soaking wet as it may cause root rot.

WATERING:

Because of the fast draining medium - they can tolerate good watering regime. Normally I water twice a day on a good sunny day and once a day in the morning on rainy days. I often refrain from watering if it rains in the morning.

FEEDING:

I find they do well in using foliar fertilizer especially the orchid mix types. Of course, these are much hardier than orchids - I find that they are quite resilient than most flowering plants.

PEST:

So far I had not encountered any pest for this particular one.

All of these pictures below are taken from Sg.Buloh nursery during the Chinese New Year Season. Most of them which are in plastic bags are actually imported. These are the tall big version of which I believe more care must be given as not to expose them to hot direct sunlight.

There are also the common local variety which I believe are much hardier in the lowland hot climate.

However - all of these are brought in either from Cameron Highlands or imported plants which had accustomed to cool / cold surrounding that immediate hot weather can give them a terrible shock of either Flower burns or bud drop.

The Price range are also affordable based on their rarity and plant size. The Red colored ones are considered common and easily available - I believe those are the hardy ones.

Even the Heart Shaped Leaves are still beautiful - like most Aroids - these do look like a Philodendron. Even without a Flower - they are indeed a Beauty.

Very much similar to a common Anthurium andraeanum, this particular one is shorter and more compact with many sprays of blooms in comparison to the tall and big bloom cultivar.

I find that this type is interesting as there are so many babies (pups) forming at the root-ball that I can constantly remove and propagate them for spares.

All other information about Care and Growing Matters can be found in my Post Below:

Anthurium andraeanum - Care and Grow

Silver Pothos - Scindapsus pictus 'Argyraeus'

Piper crocatum

Begonia Collection - Sept-Dec 2019 Update (YouTube Video)

Garden Chronicles of James David

Begonia Collection - May 2020 Update (YouTube Video)

Garden Chronicles of James David

Aquatic Plants - May 2020 Update (YouTube Video)

Garden Chronicles of James David

Sweet Potato Vine - Neon Green - Ipomoea batatas

Sweet Potato Vine - Purple Heart - Ipomoea batatas (Part 2)

Moon Vine - Ipomoea alba

Different Types of Ipomoea Species

Cissus discolor - Trailing Rex Begonia

Cissus quadrangularis - Veldt grape

Cane Begonia - 'Aya'

Begonia 'Bunchii'

Begonia - Aquamarine

Begonia - Fedor

Begonia Rose

Black Taro - Colocasia esculenta 'Black Magic' - Part 2

How to Care for a Kalanchoe Blossfeldiana Plant

Anthurium andraeanum - Care and Grow

Anthurium andraeanum - Dwarf Variety (Nursery)