I had purchased this particular variety and tried this one out for these few months. I had bought it on February 2020 and the bloom actually lasted for so many months - though it turned green and almost drying out - It still proved resilient and strong.
This one is with a red spathe with yellow spadix . The Red Spade is of a miniature version where it is glossy and it does slowly turn dark green when it get matures. The foliage too have a slight red orangery tones too,
The leaves had slowly grown bigger in comparison to the size that I had purchased. But so far - no new flowers yet. Hoping a new inflorescent will appear soon. I had removed all the pups and planted in a different planter box - they are very tiny - 2 leaved plant but none of them had survived.
Perhaps I may have to let it to grow bigger before separating them.
Anthurium luxurians has this puckering or quilted appearance on the surface of it's leaves - something like wrinkles similar to the Monstera sp "Peru' but this particular type - the foliage is much larger in heart-shaped formation.
It also have the Betel-Leaf like appearance but much of a bigger appearance. I was in deep thoughts whether should I cultivate these in my garden or forego them as they are so unique and at the same time having a common appearance of a different plant.
I for one, already have Monstera sp "Peru' and some varieties of Piper species of (Betel Leaf) Plant that gives that contrast and color for my monochromatic green garden foliage tones.
Also as we all well know - a specimen as such as this size with it's established inflorescent may cost a bomb, leaving aside the idea of placing them in my tiny garden where all my plants are currently in tight-knitted spaced out for growth space.
With many conflicting thoughts - I have to let this one go from my want-list, unless I have gotten myself to a bigger garden space later in the future of which I believe plants as such of these will be more affordable and common.
Just like most Aroids of this Nature - I believe anthurium will have similar Care & Needs like most indoor plants where it requires bright shaded area, calculated watering regime as not to over-water to cause root rot, using a fast draining medium with a good fertilizer for it to grow well.
Truly it is a good growing plant and may grow well given the space and size of the planted medium.
There are so many plants that belonged in the Aroids order and Peace Lily is one of them. Strangely there are many different varieties and cultivars available for Peace Lilies too - similar with Anthurium blooming species - Peace Lily are cultivated for their white blooms.
These flowers form a cobra hood shape - the common flowering bloom structure for this particular plant order. Occasionally I had noticed many times - Peace Lily Plants been cultivated as group plants around buildings and indoor areas as they do so well in shaded spot and challenging areas.
Some cultivars don't really need much care, once they had established themselves - the only Care they may require is Watering and occasional pruning.
I have seen this particular one in a miniature version - even placed in a clear glass bowl with it's root-ball suspended on a holder but only the white roots trailing downward creating a unique feature for table plants for indoor setting. They are full of white flowers and incredibility lovely to look at.
Just like most Ariods - these require bright shaded area for them to bloom - they do tolerate total shaded area but rarely bloom. I'm still figuring it out whether they have an aquatic behavior similar to philodendron and potho's.
I also find that there is some challenges to face this one as their foliage often get attacked by scale insect. If any infestation - a singular pest can fully colonize the whole plant all over and eventually suffocate and kill the plant.
I for one rarely use pesticide and because of this factor - I had forego cultivating this one for this reason.
Just like most Aroids of this Nature - I believe this one will have similar Care & Needs like most indoor plants where it requires bright shaded area, calculated watering regime as not to over-water to cause root rot, using a fast draining medium with a good fertilizer for it to grow well.
Leaves appears to be in regular size where it is more jade green with variegation at the center of the leaf. This is the very common type - easily available in most nurseries.
The variegation appears to be very uniform in all of the leaves - more like a silver splash on the leaf surface and the olive green colors on the main veins have a indented appearance.
Pictus meaning painted - this particular variety have those spots and splashes indentified as such. Often the common name is a misnomer - it is named as Pothos but its characteristics and behavior is far from it - it is very sensitive and very different from pothos, philodendron or Epipremnum aureum needs & care. It doesn't grow well in the same conditions in which those plants thrive.
There is nothing much to worry about if you purchased this plant where the plant had established itself with good roots system and many leaves and vine. All you have to do is just maintain the watering regime and placing the potted plant in a bright shaded area.
The challenge is far greater if you just received a cutting.
For example:
You can start cuttings - rooting them in shallow water like what you can do with some philodendron trailing species (heart-leaf philodendron / Brazil) & Epipremnum aureum types (golden pothos)
All of these does root vigorously & grow well except for Scindapsus pictus cuttings: The rarely took root - and often slowly succumb to rot at the cutting edges and may turn the leaves yellow.
Even if potting them directly after cutting them - you may not able to see immediate growth progress, rather the foliage slowly rolled inward and dying. Eventually it drops off all the leaves and the bare stalk remained and after many weeks - I was able to see a new shoot appearing. This happens for like 1 out of 5 cuttings - very low chances of survival.
I wouldn't recommend this to be rooted in water - rather there is more success when layering the trailing rooted vine on another pot and let it take rooting in them and trimming it off - separating it from the mother plant have greater success than placing it into water or direct cutting.
There is another thing about this strange happening that may take place with a healthy potted plant. After purchasing this plant for about 3 months plus - suddenly you find that the plant is slowly fading and dying away - facing root rot.
When you open up the whole root-ball - you started noticing all the roots had rotten away and wondered what happened?
Basically, the medium of which this plant is planted were cocopeat and the whole composition had turned hardened but mushy when watered. You will also find the medium smells rotten. By then, it appears to be too late as all you will have rescued is some of the trailing vine with aerial roots attached at the surface.
And so, What I often do is to reset and re-plant the plant after few weeks once the plant had acclimated in my garden and remove the medium (100% cocopeat) with a mixture of (50% existing medium with perlite, sand, sphaghum moss and coconut chips)
Too much water can kill them - therefore keeping the medium moist but not dripping wet is essential. It is best not to place them with a water saucer underneath the pot - it works for most pothos species but not for this one - rather treat it more on a drier side and water it when the medium is slightly dry.
Also Oscmocote (a tiny spherical fertilizer) a few pieces of it added on weekly basis - a slow release fertilizer seemed to be the best for them.
More mature leaves do tend to grow more elongated and also change it's appearance if it is fastened upon a pole or a totem for it to climb and trail upon.
Once the plant had established itself - there is nothing much to worry about.
I had finally got my hands on this one sold in the nursery today (9th June 2020) I had dropped by at Sg.Buloh nursery and wanted to check out what was available there with any new stock been refurbished. I was quite disappointed as most of the plants were taken and mostly are the types that I don't fancy. This one however, caught my interest and I quickly grabbed it.
Like most dischidia, they all have similarities - this one have almost the same characteristics of Dischidia albiflora where the leaf nodes are appearing to have jointed pairs.
The characteristic are a such where the foliage develop imbricate leaves which hold tightly to the growing surface. The underside of the leaf has a space which is filled with roots that creates a miniature sealed dome.
The main difference here is that the leaves appear to be swollen and have sharp pointed edge - almost like heart shaped similar to another - Dischidia Ruscifolia (Million Hearts Plant) but a bigger version.
Perhaps this might be a cultivar where they may be interbred.
This plant is very heavily rooted on the medium with is most pieces of coconut husk chips put together - the appearance of good and healthy roots does make this plant grow well.
Another thing that I often do is take cuttings and propagate spares of this plant as they can be temperamental and suddenly rots and die.
These do great as cascading plants when hanged upon on a kokedama ball or even slipped in between Staghorn Fern rootball - they truly add great feature in the creating diversity in the cascading effect.
Do click on their names to get to the link to get into more detailed information on their Care and Cultivation on each plant types and their characteristics.
I had mistaken this for a dischidia but actually it is a Hoya species. The leaves are thin and elogated - more like of a succulent appearance of (Strings of Banana) but this is much hardier and water abuse tolerant.
Hoya odetteae is just like any other hoya basically known as the Indian Rope Plant or Wax plant, is an Asclepiad species of flowering plant of the dogbane family Apocynaceae.
I must say - that I'm not so much of a fan of Hoya but this one intrigue me especially the non-uniform Hoya types - this one is very much like of a miniature variation.
Medium: This require a fast draining medium - something like orchid medium mix. It does well with a mixture of perlite, sphagnum moss, cocopeat & bark mix. It should not be a strong drainage mix where it doesn't hold any moisture at all but it should not be holding water too where the roots and stem can rot too. The balance of both is ideal.
Watering: I water daily and twice during the hot dry days. They can go without water for few days to a week and perhaps you have to take note on how the foliage appearance - if it appears withered than watering is mandatory. The downside of watering will cost the leaves to turn yellow and start rotting - therefore - the right balance is necessary.
Sun: Hoya is not a totally shade loving plant but you can place them in bright indoors area. I for one had experience where when it is placed in dark areas - they rarely bloom and the growth appears to be very leggy (the leaves nodes along the stem appear to phase out far apart and it is very unsightly especially when you prefer to have a compact foliage plants)
Another thing about Hoya is they only bloom when they receive good sun.
Without it - it may not bloom.
Hoya is a trailing plant and more on the wild side. The seemed to do well in most unforgiving conditions but at times - just barely surviving and it is indeed a slow growing plant - so don't expect much if you received a small cuttings and looking forward for new growth - It may take many months to actually notice anything.
I for one, just place them in their ideal spot and consider that done there and routinely water them on daily basis and weekly spray flowering fertilizer on them hoping them to bloom. Otherwise, it's another trailing green foliage plant that I'm contented with.
Other Factors:
1) Do not dead-head the dried flower buds as the new flowers blooms from the previous dried flower spike.
2) Do take effort to foliar fertilizer on them to induce new growth or else it will remain in that same size for months.
3) It's a trailing plant - so do allow space for it to grow and trail heavy, it will climb and vine everywhere - so do take note on that garden space in place them permanently as once it captured and coiled within the garden space - it will be difficult to remove them without cause damage to the vine or foliage.
4) This plant does produce aerial roots and may start off new shoots hence a new plant from a different location where it had rooted.
Do click on their names to get to the link to get into more detailed information on their Care and Cultivation on each plant types and their characteristics. Different Types of Hoya - Names & Images
I was having a high degree of Cabin Fever - mine was very much not able to go around and visit the nurseries and plants. During the 4 months span (March - June 2020) was truly a challenging times that can drive a gardener into insanity.
There are but some oasis to consider like this one - I found plants sold in this supermarket where it was refurbished and presentation was very pleasant. The plants are slightly expensive compared to market price but then I realized that all the plant prices had gone up.
What was used to be RM10 are now RM15 - in fact the ceiling price for the cheapest plant is exactly that - RM15. (Price checked today at Sg.Buloh - 9th June 2020)
Also I find these plants were quickly picked up as they arrive - I would consider these hot cakes.
Enough said about the introduction - Let's look at the Plants Displayed Here:
I must say that I was quite impressed at the set up and the display together with all the quality plants that was put for sale during the MCO period - where most of the nurseries are in lock-done - these are somehow are not ordinary common plants that you can easily get in a common stall setting.
These ariods - Satin Pothos, Variegated Ivy, Philodendron and Pilea truly amazing.
Also Bird Nest Fern, Pepperomia and African Violet - Geneseriads. Even the Fittonias do look fresh and perked up.
I would say it is truly therapeutic even to see these plants and flowers display here. Do check out my Part 2 on the next set of plants on cactus, succulents that been displayed here too.
This is my continuation from my Part 1 of Visiting a Nursery Set-Up in Giant Supermarket in Batu Caves. These collection are basically arrayed on a stand - what I want to show are the Succulent Varieties.
It is named Corn Plant but it is definitely a real Corn Plant rather an ornamental foliage plant where the leaves appears to have a corn like plant features - also this one is also featured for the cylindrical cane like branches where the bunches of leaves appear from the side of the stem.
I must say this is a rare find as these are not easily available and may prove difficult to care as they can easily rot away if over-watered. More of a sensitive type and most preferable for indoor setting with limited or extreme low watering regime. Once the rot sets it - it may almost too late to safe the plant.
This is another version where the foliage sprays open wide. I think there are more varieties introduced now in comparison to the common ones which I might say that they are hardier. These are considered sensitive and slow growing plants.
I must say the size and the formation of these foliage are quite impressive. These plants are rare but they are quite challenging plant - not a plant for beginners as they can be very unpredictable.
These are collection of succulents and cactus which are neatly wrapped - more like a gift plant style. However I must say that these are sun lovers and may not do well too long in a shaded setting as they may turn green and leggy looking for stronger light source.
Regardless, they are truly a good selection to choose from if you are collector. They can last for many years - given proper care and all. I have a few of them which I had kept more than 20 years - the ones I constantly trim and propagate which I consider hardy ones.
Again, there are more to be said and researched about these ones - they may appear common but truly they are unique - each individual plant have a specific care and needs.
I had my fun time with them and the phase had moved on as some died, some eaten by squirrels and some rotten away due to over watering - the ones that survived lasted me for years.
I must say that time to time, there will be a new collection and unique plants displayed that marvel and intrigue me. As for now - I'm contented viewing and enjoying them like a garden as I truly don't have space or their needs to cultivate them in my garden especially the succulents and cactus.
These are the Plants that I cultivate specially for trailing and climbing vining plants. They are very good for fence garden, especially if you are looking for privacy together with blooms and fragrance.
Showcasing here in my Garden Collection are Chalice Vine (Solandra grandiflora), Grand Duke of Tuscany, Rose Jasmine, Snowflake (Wrightia Antidysenterica), Flame Lily (Gloriosa superba) , Blood Berry (Rivina humilis) & Maiden Jealousy (Tristellateia australasiae)
Also some nice variegation foliage plants - Maranta arundinacea varigata, Episcia, Cissus bicolor.
The one that I truly admire for the remarkable foliage coloration - Trailing Rex Begonia.
I had cultivated some hardy succulent types that does well in my climate condition - where in this tropical region of heavy rain downpour together with unpredictable hot, dry climate - Succulents such as mother of millions, donkey's tail and huernia species does so well here:
Sedum morganianum & Huernia schneideriana.
Others in this collection are: Rosemary, Coleus,Calliasia Congesta "Dragon Tail", Jewel of Opar (Talinum paniculatum), Oxalis, Dumbcane, Begonia, Pilea species of which Pilea depressa (Baby tears) and Silver Sparkles.
Also these are excellent to attract sunbirds together with nectar drinking insects such as bees, moths and butterflies. This is a follow-up from my last video showcasing on Attracting Nectar Drinking Fauna in the Garden.
These are clearer pictures of my Begonias where I had labelled them according to their ID Most of the begonias in my collection are slowly regenerating back to their former glory - the ones that survived from last month update:
Following from the Collection that the ones that growing in the Mop Wick System:
The ones on the Water Pot (Aquaponic Mop-wick system) Here in this set-up are :
I must say that this was one of the plants that I had cultivated when I first began gardening. It was very much my first experiences, the days where I haven't even started blogging or taking pictures of any records of it.
So much so, I detest growing this one as it seemed to be an impossible task as it never bloomed. Unless of course - I have a nice beautiful foliage plants to content with - no matter how much fertilizers I had pumped it - it refused to flower.
Eventually, I had given those huge plants with their pots to a friend who I thought will able to care for it and it end up dead within weeks. I guess not many people are gardeners - they all desire flowers and plants but don't take the trouble to care for them. I take it as it is human nature - when something comes for free - it's always taken for granted (since it is not paid for - so, why worry)
Some basic information about this one - known as Hydrangea macrophylla commonly known as bigleaf hydrangea, French hydrangea, lacecap hydrangea, mophead hydrangea, penny mac and hortensia.
Locally known as "Bunga Tiga Bulan" meaning "3 months flower" - spanning the bloom time that last for a season.
These pictures are taken from the local Nursery from "Sg.Buloh Nursery" I wanted to show you have these plants are marketed here. Understanding this plant is considered a big deal especially you would be saving money, time and heart-ache handling the expectation as many nursery owners are very much like businessman and not gardeners.
Their ideology is very much based on the sale of the plants and rarely know much about the plants or plant care (let alone - even plant ID may be challenge for them)
There are few types only in Malaysia - the variants and some rare varieties that may have been imported and brought here for cultivation. Basically there just 2 types - the highland type and the lowland type.
The Highland Type may have an excellent bloom formation - often it comes from Cameron Highland and the flower is already bloomed in their prime when sold in nursery. It will last around another 2-3 months but it may never bloom again after that season. These all appear to be like in a dwarf stage which I'm suspecting that they might be (forced root) after they had set in bud-bloom.
These are however considered as BATA plants (Buy And Throw Away Plants)
Once their blooms are spend - it's often discard and thrown away, just like a cut flower types - these last longer in indoor setting - like by a sunny window stand.
However, all are not lost, they can still be cultivated as a perennial plant and may last for many years when cared properly.
The local variety however have been acclimatized over the years and does bear flowers but they are not that showy and blooms lesser compared to the highland ones. The plus point is that they do flower in the hot lowland climate in comparison to the highland ones. Again, it is a contention that can only be verified by experienced gardeners. I know few gardeners who still having the highland ones that doing everything that is possible on the fertiliser/placement/watering and all - and it still fail to bloom.
Kampung Hydrangea - Bunga Tiga Bulan
A little information on the local variety - the leaves appears slightly lime light green in color (the highland ones are much darker green) The flower buds are smaller and the blooms appear in light blue: cyan with slight greenish texture at the center. Eventually the blooms gets bigger over the weeks and when it is in full bloom, it will turn to green almost feel like a plastic flower - often it was used as dried flowers as indoor decoration.
I won't recommend this if you have a dust problem indoors as it will appear to be pathetic when the blooms collect dust on the petals.
It is fairly easy plant if you had purchased it when it is still in bloom. Just water it when the medium is slightly dry, you can rewater it when the leaves appears droopy. This is a very thirsty plant - and so it may require twice a day watering and many times over on a hot day.
LIGHT:
It prefers indirect bright light - too hot sun can burn and scorch the blooms.
However, the right balance is very important for the next blooming - too shaded the leaves appears lovely but it will never bloom / Too hot and direct sun - the leaves will get burned and the plant get under stress. Ideally the best placement is kept where it gets good sunlight in the morning and shaded by the noon - direct sun.
I noticed that if not most / all of the medium that been planted that come from the nursery are cocopeat. Though it is very good for new cut plant for root development - it is not ideal for long-termed plants. These potted plants in this medium will slowly succumb to root-rot and eventually die away within few months.
If you plan to keep for long-term - you may need to change the medium with 50% fast draining medium & 50% rich compost medium.
COLOR CHANGE ON THE FLOWERS: FROM BLUE TO MAGENTA:
The flowers change colors due to PH difference - they all are from the same plant.
When planted in acidic soils around PH 4.5 to 5.5 it produce blue flowers and when in Alkaline soils, pH of 6.0 or more, are more likely to produce pink blooms.
The presence of aluminum in the plant ultimately determines the color of the blooms.
TIPS:
Often Soap washed water does the trick in increasing the PH turning the flowers to Blue.
To Turn to Pink - You may use Epsom salt, eggshell or even coffee fertilizer.
The best chance are the green soft cutting. The branch should be about 5-6" long where there is a crown rosette of leaves. Remove the lower leaves at the bottom - at least 2-3 leaf nodes and poke into the planting medium in a pot. Place it in a cool bright shade.
It will take root and may able see new growth in few weeks time.
PRUNING:
This plant does require pruning time to time for it to focus it's growth on blooming or else, the plant will focus only on in its growth and will rarely flowers.
Image may be NSFW. Clik here to view.
The comparison of Kampung Hydrangea (picture above) for comparison.
This plant do require a big space to grow and therefore do require an ideal location for it too. Not too hot and not too shaded. Not too much water or the roots may rot and not too less water and the plant will wilt away. It is like finding the right balance.
Truly an amazing plant to grow - it does need attention and care.
And so, it is not a care free plant where it can grow abandoned - it may but it may not give beautiful blooms.
Unlike the common types where you can see grown by the roadside where it can appear to be tall, semi wood shrub plant - these ones are in small pot with big sized flowers.
The ID seemed to be tricky as they are not officially having a specific name.
Commonly known as Hawaiian Hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) These are grown on highlands which may produce exotic blooming sprays but able to tolerate low-land climate with proper care.
One of the characteristics you can notice is the bud formation where it appears to be like a rosebud, almost like a lotus bud formation. This appearance doesn't appear on the common look breed.
These pictures are taken from the local Nursery from "Sg.Buloh Nursery" I wanted to show you have these plants are marketed here. Understanding this plant is considered a big deal especially you would be saving money, time and heart-ache handling the expectation as many nursery owners are very much like businessman and not gardeners.
Their ideology is very much based on the sale of the plants and rarely know much about the plants or plant care (let alone - even plant ID may be challenge for them)
There are few types only in Malaysia - the variants and some rare varieties that may have been imported and brought here for cultivation. Basically there just 2 types - the highland type and the lowland type.
The Highland Type may have an excellent bloom formation - often it comes from Cameron Highland and the flower is already bloomed in their prime when sold in nursery. It will last around another 2-3 months but it may never bloom again after that season. These all appear to be like in a dwarf stage which I'm suspecting that they might be (forced root) after they had set in bud-bloom.
These are however considered as BATA plants (Buy And Throw Away Plants) Once their blooms are spend - it's often discard and thrown away, just like a cut flower types - these last longer in indoor setting - like by a sunny window stand.
However, all are not lost, they can still be cultivated as a perennial plant and may last for many years when cared properly.
I must say there are many challenges in cultivating this particular cultivar compared to the common ones. Firstly is the pest attack.
Mealy bug seemed to love them - and the infestation is so bad that it goes all the way even into the rootball. Another culprit was farming ants - they brought in alphids and back again with scale insect.
Eventually even after continuous application of pesticide, the battle rages on but finally the plant died out of stress.
And so, I must stress that Prevention is Better Than Cure.
Either use a good organic pesticide before the attack takes place to deter all the pest to get attracted to this hibiscus.
Or don't at all - use any pesticide which means don't cultivate this plant at all until find a better solution for the pest control.
This is the Main Problem for this Plant - Solving this Problem settles the Rest of Problem,
Other Care & Maintenance of the Plant is very similar like most tropical plant care.
Hibiscus is a sun loving plant. It does require bright direct sunlight for it to bloom. Without the sunlight - it may not bloom at all, the formed buds may bloom later in days time but no new bud formation may appear later on when placed in shaded garden.
The flowers may last a day or two - these are short spanned flowers and will wither and fall away by evening or the next day.
Once they had grown and established itself - It becomes hardy plant and there is nothing much to worry about except daily watering, weekly feeding and occasional pruning to keep the plant in shape.
I noticed that if not most / all of the medium that been planted that come from the nursery are cocopeat. Though it is very good for new cut plant for root development - it is not ideal for long-termed plants. These potted plants in this medium will slowly succumb to root-rot and eventually die away within few months.
If you plan to keep for long-term - you may need to change the medium with 50% fast draining medium & 50% rich compost medium.
If kept in the existing pot where the medium is cocopeat: Do consider not to overwater as it will definitely cause flower bud-drop due to overwatering. One of the way to handle the matter is to change the medium.
Otherwise, these do well on daily watering - they also do well carefree planted in open area without any watering whatsoever relying on just the rain. These are however a tropical plant.
Of course - only once the plant established itself grown in open ground. It may not applicable if they are in planted as a potted plant.
They can be grown by seeds but these do not normally bear fruits here in the tropical side and so most likely the best success would be using stem cutting. The branch should be about 5-6" long where there is a crown rosette of leaves. Remove the lower leaves at the bottom - at least 2-3 leaf nodes and poke into the planting medium in a pot. Place it in a cool bright shade.
It will take root and may able see new growth in few weeks time.
These are some of the varieties of types of Hawaiian Dwarf hibiscus that are usually sold in the nursery. There was once a season where it was trending that these were highly sought after. However like any trend and season - these come and go.
Hibiscus are very much decorative ornament plant but unlike other counterpart they prove to have other uses.
FLOWERS:
These flowers are considered Edible Flowers and often used together in Green Salad. Normally the petals are sliced and garnished together with salad. It is important to grow them on your own - purchasing them from florist or nursery may be fatal as they may contain pesticides.
Also they can be made into Juice and Drinks.
FOLIAGE:
The leaves too have uses - normally they are pounded and use as hair conditioner. It is believed to make the hair grow thicker and darker - often used for traditional purpose. I also had seen these ingredient appearing in shampoo's and hair-oil too.
Also there are many other traditional uses together with medicinal & cosmetic uses - curing or relief many ailments and such. Just do some research and follow-up with good reliable source just to make sure.
These pictures are taken from the local Nursery from "Sg.Buloh Nursery" I wanted to show you have these plants are marketed here. Understanding this plant is considered a big deal especially you would be saving money, time and heart-ache handling the expectation as many nursery owners are very much like businessman and not gardeners.
Their ideology is very much based on the sale of the plants and rarely know much about the plants or plant care (let alone - even plant ID may be challenge for them)
There are few types only in Malaysia - the variants and some rare varieties that may have been imported and brought here for cultivation.
These Highland Type may have an excellent bloom formation - often it comes from Cameron Highland and the flower is already blooming formation and almost at their prime when sold in nursery. It will last around another 2-3 weeks at most but it may never bloom again after that season. These all appear to be like in a dwarf stage which I'm suspecting that they might be (forced root) after they had set in bud-bloom.
These are however considered as BATA plants (Buy And Throw Away Plants) Once their blooms are spend - it's often discard and thrown away, just like a cut flower types - these last longer in indoor setting - like by a sunny window stand.
However, all are not lost, they can still be cultivated as a perennial plant and may last for many years when cared properly.
The heart breaking moments happens when you start noticing bud drops and shoots turning black almost burned, the leaves start falling and then the whole plant turn black. You try to safe it by thinking it is lacking water and start drenching the pot with more water.
Whatever you do, it appears to be burned and eventually the whole this is dead.
A lot of my friends & family often purchase their roses from nurseries or supermarket and they somehow do not last more than a month. I had experience it few times myself even after some tender loving care - after the bloomed spend the plant shivered and dies.
And at most times, they had given up on Roses thinking it is an impossible feat.
Some settled for the local types known as Kampung Rose - its more hardy and the blooms only last a day or two.
When you purchase Roses from a nursery and you find that the rose flower bloom is beautifully compacted and formed - understand that chances are those roses are actually grown on highlands (Cameron Highlands) Highland Roses may face a shock when suddenly introduced to a hot lowland climate - that's why you will find that the flowers appear to be exploded, leaves falling apart and the plant eventually die from fungus or root problems.
What to do?
Most of these roses are laced with chemicals to protect them from pest. Do not consume them as they are poisoned with pesticide and fungicide. Also remember that the soil medium is actually cocopeat which will cause root rot when they are planted in hot lowland climate. They don't so well when the rose is over watered as the normal lowland counterparts do.
a) Keep the plant in shade for a week.
b) Water lightly and remove all the dying, yellow leaves.
c) Trim off all the spend rose blooms.
d) Enjoy the flowers until all of them are finish it prime blooms.
e) When you notice the newly formed buds turning into flowers - you will find that they are not so beautiful as they are first purchased. You can if you wish trim off those flower buds and keep the whole plant in leaf formation first.
Carefully remove the plant from the pot and slowly break of the chunks of the cocopeat from the root ball. They will be slightly moist and you can slowly break them off from the root base.
Use 50% fast draining medium together with the 50% existing potting mix (cocopeat) together as the potting mix - normally there might be 2-3 rose stalk plant in that small pot. Remove carefully each of them and plant them separately as they won't be competing with each other when they grow bigger.
Keep them in bright shade and just lightly water the plant - keeping the soil moist.
You will notice new growth appearing in a few weeks time, slowly introduce it to open bright sunlight, The plant will slowly acclimatize and becomes more hardy.
You will notice the flowers will be less showy and the formation is much different in comparison to what you had purchased. However they are still alive and continue to produce blooms.
Also using proper fertilizer is important - I had accidentally used a cheap fertilizer and it had burned up all the young shoots and buds. Therefore, do check and purchase a reputable good fertilizer - it does go a long way and save a lot of heart-aches in the future.
I noticed that Roses are indeed a sensitive plant - they are so much open for attack. I had terrible attacks with thrips, alphids, mealy bugs, whitefly and ants. Truly a pesticide weekly regime is required to ensure these roses don't go through heavy attack.
I had decided to do away with pesticide and so had sacrificed my roses when they had succumb to heavy attack and never recovered.
They can be grown by seeds but these do not normally bear fruits here in the tropical side and so most likely the best success would be using stem cutting. The branch should be about 5-6" long where there is a crown rosette of leaves. Remove the lower leaves at the bottom - at least 2-3 leaf nodes and poke into the planting medium in a pot. Place it in a cool bright shade.
It will take root and may able see new growth in few weeks time.
Rose is a sun loving plant. It does require bright direct sunlight for it to bloom. Without the sunlight - it may not bloom at all, the formed buds may bloom later in days time but no new bud formation may appear later on when placed in shaded garden.
Depending on the variety - some of the flowers can last for a week, others for few days. Eventually the petals fall or dries off on the flower stalk - it would do good to dead head them as more blooms will appear.
Once they had grown and established itself - It becomes hardy plant and there is nothing much to worry about except daily watering, weekly feeding and occasional pruning to keep the plant in shape.
Once the plant had established itself and in open sun, ideally it would be best to water them twice a day depending on the size of the pot and the condition of the day - whether it a hot dry day or no watering on rainy days.
Do take note that the roots can be sensitive and may face root rot that can kill the plant - and that another regime of fungicide may be required to ensure their healthy. I had lost a few due to root rot.
Also these still require pruning to keep them in shape - they can grow unruly and may produce less blooms - pruning them constantly makes them focus on the blooms rather than overgrowing themselves.
It is important to do this when the plant is healthy - if it is dying - It may just be too late to do anything to revive it back. And so, give a week at most, once the flowers are all gone and the leaves are slowly turning yellow - it is high time to change the existing cocopeat into a new soil mix.
This particular cultivar was given to me by my neighbor - she was my secret admirer: Whenever she sees me watering or pruning my garden she will often smile and start a small chat about the hot weather whenever I water my garden.
Often, I would generously offer her to take any of my plant cuttings to start her collection but always she would gently refuse as saying lacking garden space and don't have the time to cultivate and care for the plants.
And so, one day - she passed me this huge pot with this well established rose flower. It did last for few years and almost died few times due to root rot or some pest attack. I tried taking cuttings and start a new rose plant as spare but never successful in creating a rose plant.
I must say that this one is considered hardy that it had none of the major problems that would be like the ones faced by the Highland types. The blooms appears to be big and the fragrance are strong.
The flowers are in deep red and the blooms appear to hold well even under strong sun and rain.
Also the flowers last for few days and at times almost for a week - unfurling itself as it ages.
At times, I had neglected watering this rose plant and they had gone droopy but will just jump right back once immediately watered. I would say - it is one of the hardy types.
Roses do have their needs and may take a lot care to properly cultivate them. If you are busy day and night and may not have the time to tend to them daily - I would suggest that Roses are really not your cup of tea to cultivate in your garden. They are indeed attention seeker and require a lot of care.
But if you are a Rose Lover - nothing can stop you from cultivating and growing them. And they truly reward a good gardener with beautiful flowers - Roses are indeed a True Beauty.
What is a Garden without a Rose Plant?
One Singular Rose can make a lot of Difference in a Barren Garden.
Unfortunately this Rose plant died - as I checked it had faced a root rot, I'm suspecting due to the constant rain that took place on daily basis and this poor plant was over stressed. The trunk were quite aged - spanning for many years it had finally come to it's end.
I had bid farewell to this beauty, minus the mean thorns that I had always get pricked over - other than that set-back, they are truly a beauty that I would still miss. Again, due to the lack of space in my garden and their highly required care and maintenance regiment of fungicide and pesticide - I rather let this plant go as I prefer to have a pesticide free garden.
I had however started cultivated miniature rose and find that they are less fussy and more hardier than the common ones. I will share my experience on my next post:
This particular one is a Miniature Rose - it is a small bloom type with many tiny flowers in a bunch. It had fragrance but it is more interesting when it has more sprays of flower when it blooms.
I must say that if you love roses, you will still find them growing them in your garden, regardless the excuse - they will eventually find a home in your garden, no matter how small they are.
This is one of those stories - my garden story in my garden - A Rose Forever.
Reminiscing my old pictures of my water pond where I keep my goldfish and above all - fastening them with all kinds of aquatic friendly plants which I can get my hands on.
Somehow the beauty of keeping them colorful and interesting can prove to be challenging when they overgrow or becomes leggy. Sometimes they don't do so well in this aquatic setting - as they prove to be more of a trial and error basis plants.
Here are in the collection of the types of pothos and philodendron.
Some plants did well in the inital stage like the Dumbcane species but slowly they didn't cut out well in this setting as they slowly started to have root rot - perhaps, it was too humid or wet and didn't get much air movement as they always look limp.
However, after removing them and placing them more to a sunnier side - they picked up better in that condition. As I mentioned - most of the times, it is more of the trial and error basis.
I'm guessing - the factor of trying it out and identifying what works best and what don't actually makes a lot of difference in this experimenting gardening.
The proverbial Turtle and the Hare story (here is very much a Doe) was very much challenging to me as each season - I have to constantly change the plants as they don't seem to do well in this condition.
In the beginning, it appears to be OK, but slowly diminish and becomes bare.
It is still work in progress to identify what works and what don't.
The Sun appears to shine brighter here only during the first few month during the Year especially (Jan-March) and the light slowly shifts out to other direction making this place very shaded and wet, which explains why most of the plants can't manage the humidity jump.
Regardless the challenge faced, I somehow find these particular types do so well in this condition, especially pothos, philodendron and sygoniums. These do have beautiful colored varieties that brighten up this place.
I also find that they have root sensitivity that once they had adjusted themselves in these aquatic conditions - they can't switch back to the soil medium like an ordinary plant - often when I do so - they slowly succumb to root rot and wither away. I'm guessing that they had been too long in wet feet that they just don't have the legs to stand back to the ground - figuratively speaking.
I would say, they are kind of ideal to put them in water for a week or two for their roots to grow and stabilize but they are not meant to be there in long term basis - unless, you intend to put your spares here just to add colors - then by all means go ahead, but to put your only collection here can be high at risk.
I also found that Satin Pothos do not like wet feet. I had placed a cutting here and it had slowly rotten away and was very disappointed at the outcome of it. I guess not everything of the "pothos" ariod types like wet feet.
I also tried with this particular type: Dragontail plant and I find that it does fairly well in this condition compared to the ones planted in soil medium - infact they had grown better roots and very much stable to be transplanted back to soil medium.
I didn't want to have too many of these as they can grow big and become a handful & had graciously gifted to many of friends who had loved having them in their garden collection.
Reminiscing my old pictures of my water pond where I keep my goldfish and above all - fastening them with all kinds of aquatic friendly plants which I can get my hands on. This is my Part 2 of the continuation of the story.
I had always loved colored foliage plants especially the red ones - this particular of my strong interest when they turn to those rosy tones when exposed well in the a balanced indirect light. It doesn't get much care except some sprinkles of water from the water pond below.
This one is placed in a hanging basket just above the pond. This Sygonium Pink is truly remarkable specimen.
Finally my love for the Fish pond is the cream with the cherry on top: The Gold Fish.
I have taking care of them for years. I could they that they are a hardy ones - lived with me for so many years - I hope they continue their life journey for another decade.
The only ordeal is keeping the water pond clean and clear from dirt and debris. I had to change & wash the filters on weekly basis to keep the water from turning murky. Also change quarter of the water quantity in keeping them fresh.
Overall, the plants and the biodiversity that rolls in this system somehow manage to keep everything in their perfect order. Happy Fish and Happy Plants.
I also have a spider that had spun a web across the pond which I would say - it is kind of cool to see these living creatures making a home in this tight space tiny garden. I am still amazed to note that it had lasted so many years and still does continue to web to this day.
Also, I am a bit of a crazy when it comes for moss when I find this aquatic type of moss growing by the drain-side. I'm still experimenting on it and seeing how well do they fair in my garden condition.
It had eventually evolved when more plants started to grow and introduced together with it. Sort of like a symbiotic gardening putting all of the plants together.
Reminiscing my old pictures of my water pond where I keep my goldfish and above all - fastening them with all kinds of aquatic friendly plants which I can get my hands on.
This was the time where I had not started with the idea of growing begonias using the mop wick system. And so - these were very much aquatic set-up where I just loved having life-bearer fish: platties and guppies in that water pot.
The plants I had introduced here are Water Lettuce, Blue Fern, Water Hyacinth, Salvinia minima and Umbrella Pennywort. I had planted Teacup Colocasia here but it didn't do well and so I have to replant it in a different location.
Blue Fern is actually a Selaginella species which is native in my region. I just love the iridescent blue tones that forms in the foliage.
I had tried few types here and seen they had finished their season and slowly fade away when they don't get enough sun especially during the Year End Season when it rains a lot, the days are shorter and gloomier.
I believe sometimes the plants do tend to stay for a season and find a way to move on. The reality of gardening where a gardener need to know and adjust according to the move and wave of plants and their behavioral patterns.
Nothing is permanent, Nothing is Fixed - it is like fluid movement - just going with the flow..
When I first saw this plant - I had totally fallen in love this one. Locally known as "Pokok Gunting" supposedly an heir-loom plant which been passed down from generations, as I had found that this was actually belonged as "Kampung Plants" whereas the meaning derived as "Pokok Gunting" as you just cut and poke plant. Of course, after checking the web - the name is sort of commonly used among locals but known universally.
Gynura Aurantiaca commonly known as Purple Velvet Plant, Purple Passion Plant, Royal Velvet Plant or Velvet Plant. There are different species of Gynura which were used as traditional medicinal plant but this particular one is purely ornamental.
The foliage has this light furry hairs that gives that purple velvety sheen on the green leaves. Gynura Aurantiaca is a trailing, evergreen perennial that was originally discovered on the island of Java in Indonesia.
I find this one is not so fussy about the soil medium, it can actually do so well in all kinds of medium types - from dry to moist types. Ideally do give a nice balance potting mix of both fast draining together with rich peat based medium that this one is well maintained for good root growth.
Do keep more on the drier side - it performs better than a wet feet.
WATERING:
It does well on daily watering - twice a day during a hot sunny days. Over watering can cause them to face root rot and the plant appears limp. And so do check on what is ideal - not too soggy a soil medium.
LIGHT:
This one do require bright indirect lighting to ensure a good coloration on the foliage. Too shady and they tend to appear more green than purple. Too hot and exposed to direct hot sun can cause the foliage can get burned and closed up.
I must emphasize that this may require a bit more pruning as the vine can just grow as a singular piece and may just snap and break due to it's own weight or can uproot itself from the hanging pot and you may lose the plant on a hot bright day without realizing it.
And so, the best option is to constantly prune them and used the cuttings for spare plants as they can be finicky - I had lost this plant couple of times.
It had been said which I believe it is true to prune of the flower heads before the form seeds as the plant can quickly set to mature and die off. I had not experienced this as none of my plants had not set to flower.
Also I believe it would be better to do so, as I often nip off the flower buds of my Coleus plant to keep it going longer and focus on it's growth on foliage and root development.
Then there are report stating the blooms emits a foul smell that may not be pleasant. It would be better to remove them before they set to bloom unless you love experimenting with those first blooms.
It is a slow growing plant and may not appear to be invasive looking anytime soon. Other than that, this is fairly an easy plant to care for. Once it had set itself good roots - there are nothing much to worry about.
You might find a common Asystasia which normally have a showy flower but often found as wild roadside plants and considered as a weed plant. And so in comparison this appear to be strangely so different from the original counter-part particularly this one where it is very much cultivated for the variegated foliage (which have yellow tones)
Also Asystasia is considered invasive commonly known as Chinese Violet, Coromandel, Ganges Primrose & Creeping Foxglove - those are mostly cultivated for the floral ornament plant where the foliage has white colorations (the floral variegated version)
This one have fine skeleton like creeping vine which can prove fragile and may suddenly die away if they are not strongly rooted. However, roots do appear at each nodes when they touch ground surface making them more resilient and hardy. Watering is important as they do not do well as drought tolerant plant - they just wither away within a day and it would be too late to regenerate them.
And so, always have spare plant - trimmed and pruned and stashed somewhere - it may suddenly punish you when they suddenly die without warning when you miss their watering regime: such an unforgiving plant.
However once they pick up their growing regime they can appear to full in a bush. And so pruning is required to keep them in shape or else they can be unruly and may break and fall apart in their own weight as they grow overlapping each other.
They can do well with regular potting mix - do place them more on the drier side, fast draining medium as they can also rot easily when over-watered.
WATERING:
Daily watering and twice a day on a hot day. They can wither and dry away - and so to keep a tab on them as they may not recover once they had passed withering stage.
LIGHT:
They thrive on bright shaded area - which is very ideal for them as a basket hanging plants. Also do well as ground creeping plant.
