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Dumbcane - Dieffenbachia seguine

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Appearance:

This is the common types, similar to Dieffenbachia amoena 'Tropic Snow'

These are the common types easily available in many nurseries and often freely showcased as indoor plants in many places. Often too, I find these pruned and thrown off and new offshoots sprouts out from the cane but also because it is exposed to elements - snails and slugs does most of the damage on the new unfurling leaves with lots of eaten or torn in between.

This particular type only have 2 tone colors - a splash in the center with a dark green border at the leaf edges. The cream colors appears bigger when it is exposed more to sunlight.

This one is like a car-tyre marking treads on the leaves.


Do click on my link below for More Detailed Information concerning on
How to Care & Cultivate Dumbcane Plant:

Dumbcane - Dieffenbachia - Best Indoor Plants




Dumbcane - Dieffenbachia amoena

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Appearance:

This is the common types, similar to Dieffenbachia seguine easily available in many nurseries and often freely showcased as indoor plants in many places. Often too, I find these pruned and thrown off and new offshoots sprouts out from the cane but also because it is exposed to elements - snails and slugs does most of the damage on the new unfurling leaves with lots of eaten or torn in between.

This particular type only have 2 tone colors - a splash in the center with a dark green border at the leaf edges. The cream colors appears bigger when it is exposed more to sunlight.

This one is more spaced out in the splashes without any visible pattern.


Do click on my link below for More Detailed Information concerning on
How to Care & Cultivate Dumbcane Plant:

Dumbcane - Dieffenbachia - Best Indoor Plants

Dumbcane - Dieffenbachia seguine ' Tropic Rain'

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Appearance:

I'm starting to understand about Dieffenbachia seguine where the main characteristics are basically the tall cane stem with arching lance shaped leaves. This particular variety seemed to be a new version of which it has more yellow than the usual light cream colors for it spots.

Unlike other complex foliage types where the colors are more than three tones, this one however only hold 2 colors only.

The closest ID that I think it may refer to be is D. 'Tropic Rain' but I may be wrong as I'm unable to find a reliable source for this one.



The plant appears to be more greener when in shade (pic above)
and more yellow when in full sun (pic below)



Do click on my link below for More Detailed Information concerning on
How to Care & Cultivate Dumbcane Plant:

Dumbcane - Dieffenbachia - Best Indoor Plants

Dumbcane - Dieffenbachia candida

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Appearance:

I find this one a winner for colored foliage where it is very stable. It does not revert back to any mix parentage and the foliage are somehow appear to be uniform. This one is reverse of Dieffenbachia amoena (or the common ones)

This one has 2 tones colors the edges and midrib are dark green with cream full surface. Multiple branches are sprouting out from a singular stem - having a characteristics of a compacta or maculata.
Perhaps they are hybrids from this parentage.



Do click on my link below for More Detailed Information concerning on
How to Care & Cultivate Dumbcane Plant:

Dumbcane - Dieffenbachia - Best Indoor Plants


Dumbcane - Dieffenbachia 'Mosaic'

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Appearance:

This is so much similar with Dieffenbachia candida, however this one is more longer with the green colors more faded than candida. These have lighter green coloration and the cream more subtle.

Also I find this colors foliage are stable and hardy, though it is slow growing - it seemed to be doing just fine.This one has 2 tones colors the edges and midrib are light green with cream full surface. 




I had mixed matched with other foliage plants to give that perfect green monotones that gives strong features in small space garden.



Do click on my link below for More Detailed Information concerning on
How to Care & Cultivate Dumbcane Plant:

Dumbcane - Dieffenbachia - Best Indoor Plants

Dumbcane - Dieffenbachia compacta sp

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Appearance:

This is practically a sensitive one, the whole plant had a heavy attack where the snails and slugs seemed to love it. Eventually it had succumb to rot and the plant died. I now realized that not Dieffenbachia does not behave the same - this one however is not hardy.

It has more than 3 tones with another added variation at the edges - streaks of white and another layer like splashes in the appearance like a transparent plastic like grey/white features. Truly regret why I had not paid more attention to cultivate it as many as possible.

I also realized that this one seemed to be more rare and not easily available in the plant market. Identifying the breed has it's own challenges. I had spotted this one sold in online nursery without any indication of it's ID or any botanic information.

One thing though - it has the compacta parentage where the foliage has clustered formation and they don't grow too big.




Do click on my link below for More Detailed Information concerning on
How to Care & Cultivate Dumbcane Plant:

Dumbcane - Dieffenbachia - Best Indoor Plants

Dumbcane - Dieffenbachia maculata 'Camille'

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Appearance:

This particular one have a compact growth, unlike other types where it is very cane like, this one appears in dense growth and the foliage is fragile. It has dark green edges with its midrib but the center is contrast with strong splash of creamy white that fades off as it reaches to its edges.






I believe it is the same one but this one is more exposed to sun and more of a matured plant and hence the growth and formation is very different but have similar traits. Perhaps it is another version of D.maculata - their names and ID seemed to difficult to confirm.


This is another miniature type that I had found, I believe it is very much like a compact version. 
It may be dieffenbachia maculata compacta but only be known clearly when it is fully grown.



Do click on my link below for More Detailed Information concerning on
How to Care & Cultivate Dumbcane Plant:

Dumbcane - Dieffenbachia - Best Indoor Plants

Dumbcane - Dieffenbachia Vesuvius

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Appearance:

I had spotted this one in one of the nurseries in Sg.Buloh that says it is D.laguna but somehow I have my doubts as this could be Dieffenbachia Vesuvius.

Dieffenbachia 'Vesuvius' is very much have a sharp pointed leaf tip where the whole border is dark green within its yellow and cream tones with green spots.
Very similar with D.Mary but this one has more cream tones on it.


Do click on my link below for More Detailed Information concerning on
How to Care & Cultivate Dumbcane Plant:

Dumbcane - Dieffenbachia - Best Indoor Plants


Dumbcane - Dieffenbachia standleyi

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Appearance:

Just like any other dumbcane species - this one have all the features except for the coloration on it.
The leaves are more thicker and firm. It appears the foliage extends all the way to the stem and the midrib too is thicker too in comparison to other varieties.

Chances are this could be a hybrid dwarf version of it cultivated for ornament plants.
I found this plant planted by the roadside and took the pictures as these are very showy and evident in comparison the one in my garden - too small and unrevealing.






Do click on my link below for More Detailed Information concerning on
How to Care & Cultivate Dumbcane Plant:

Dumbcane - Dieffenbachia - Best Indoor Plants

Different Types of Dieffenbachia (Dumbcane) - Names & Images

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This is my collection of Dieffenbachia (Dumbcane) which I had managed to cultivate and grow. Strangely as it may seemed - I find some of the varieties are easier than others and some are stubbornly difficult and easily succumb to pest attack and easily rot away.

I had find many had slightly confused with Agloanema species which is closely related with particular species. As for one, I would consider if it is Agloanema - there will be more red coloration on its foliage and colors included on the stem too.

Dieffenbachia however is very much grows tall and leggy, also bigger and hardy in comparison to Agloanema. Also factor is that the base dominant color is green with (white to cream tones) the difference of splashes, streaks and dots that makes the unique difference in the patterns which is somehow difficult to put in a uniform factor as each foliage is uniquely different from each other.

One thing that I seek to identify and class them according to my understanding:
The colors - some are just 2 tones and some are more than 3 tones.
I for one find that those are in 2 colored tone catagories seemed to be very stable in their appearance and also hardy.

The ones that have the shaded appearance like fades and watercolored paint wash - seemed to be more sensitive and may easily damaged and does succumb to rot.

The other factor is the hybridization and it's variety.
Technically speaking (or what I had discovered is that)  Dieffenbachia seguine and Dieffenbachia maculata have similar characteristics and often crossed breed until they are most likely are of the same species.

D. maculata have unique characteristics where the leaves are more oblong shaped, sharply pointed and have fragile features in comparison to D.seguine which may be hardy and cane like.
However the D.amoena may too fall into the D.seguine category.


Here are the list Dieffenbachia (Dumbcane)
Do click on their names to get to the link to get into more detailed information
on each plant types and their characteristics.

Click on the link above for detailed information on Care & Cultivation for this plant.



These are the most common and hardy dieffenbachia often pruned and easily available even planted along roadsides and common park areas. 

These 3 types have very similar behavior characteristics except for the cream marking on the foliage.
(top to below) can be considered very common types which may not be sold in nurseries anymore as they are no longer considered popular.







This one is fairly common but may not easily available in comparison to the top three above.
However - these are still considered popular due to the overall light green colors on the foliage.



I had found this one pruned and thrown away along the roadside years ago. (2009) I had not seen this grown anywhere though and even seen nurseries so far. 


This was passed to be my friend and also easily able in some nurseries. These do grow big and have large foliage formation and may require space for them to grow to this size.


I believe this is a recent new cultivar introduced recently in the plant market. It has a large broad foliage with tall stem stability growth and may require space to grow to this large size.



I believe these are the commonly available ones sold in nurseries now. These do hold some level of popularity due to the complex coloration and texture, though some appear to be fragile and sensitive.
(picture below)












Do feel free to go through and see if there is any discrepancies and if you are very sure of it's ID, do let me know as I can correct/update them. Also do share what other types of dieffenbachia that you cultivate and your experience pertaining it.

Garden Overview - May 2020

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This is my quick update of my garden set-up featuring my fish-pond where I placed my water feature plants such as Epipremnum, Pothos, Monstera, Caladiums and Philodendrons, mostly ariods that does well in water.

Also Watermelon Begonia - Pellonia repens which does well near a water feature location.

Also my update on my Vertical Garden plants where I had rearranged my bromeliads due to the sun-light. All of the bromeliads are growing well and stable in this condition. Also I had planted the stem cuttings in these empty spaces on the hanging pots, adding zigzag plant cuttings and purple passion vine (Gynura), Wandering Jew, Variegated Indian Borage & Anthurium.

Earlier I had orchids and episcias planted on vertical garden set-up which did not do well due to rodent attack and therefore I'm not pursuing them rather replacing them with Agloanema species where they are quite evident with their foliage display.
The existing orchids were replanted in the claypot here and I'm hoping it will regenerate but mostly succumbed and rotten away.

A quick update on Begonia being stable in the mopwick system.
Begonia - U497, Begonia - Bethlehem Star, Begonia - Martin Mystery, Begonia - Floccifera, Begonia - U309, Begonia - Speculata, Begonia - Black Knight, Begonia - Candy Stripe,.

Also cane begonia and the spotted versions: Cane Begonia - Maculata wightii, Cane Begonia 'Albo-picta'& Burning Bush Begonia.

More on the context on Dieffenbachia types and the companion foliage plants that goes well in the planterbox: Elephant Ears

Swamp Taro - Colocasia esculenta L., Giant Taro - Colocasia gigantea 'Thailand Giant', Blue Taro - Xanthosoma violaceum, Maranta, Calathea, Ctenanthe, Stromanthe, Schismatoglottis wallichii & Leucosia.

Cascading Plant collection:
I had planted Epiphyllum sp. (Queen on fhe night) leaf cuttings and they are stabilizing with new growth.

A quick review on their updates on those which does well on kokedama balls, hangers and planter box: Rhipsalis, dischidia, orchids and airplants.

Ferns: Bird Nest Fern Variegated, Fluffy Ruffle Ferns, Staghorn Fern, Fish-tail Fern, Boston Fern, Rabbit-foot Fern, Tassel Fern, Maiden Hair Fern, Huperzia nummularifolia, Huperzia squarrosa, Huperzia phlegmaria, Lemon Button Fern & Selaginella: Blue Fern,

These are features where the plants behave as cascading plants that hang like a curtain which gives a good screen for privacy and good vertical shade.

Addition:
I had placed hangers on my gate where I placed colored foliage plants where I had replaced them where I had planted episcias before. Here is more of the ornamental sweet potato vine, piper, senecio, baby tears, rosary vine, rex begonia vine.

Also some potted plants that I had placed outside my porch:
Caladium, Colocasia, Coleus and miniature roses with Callisa repens.

Philodendron Raja Congo

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There are so many philodendron types to choose from ranging from the common hardy types to sensitive slow growing types - some are compact grower while others are large in their foliage structure.

The ID however is a bit elusive.
Philodendron Raja Congo or Philodendron Rojo Congo.

Characteristics:

This particular Philodendron has smooth glossy sheen with oblong shaped foliage. The leaves are in dark green with slight tones of red at the new fronds and bud. 

This one however, I find that it is fairly easy to care for.







New buds are in appearances of rosy red tones. It appears to be that it is like central crown and doesn't grow upward and trailing similar to pothos behavior.


Do click on my link below for more detailed information concerning on
How to Care & Cultivate Philodendron Plant:

Philodendron - Best Indoor Plants

Philodendron Hastatum - Silver Sword

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Characteristics:

This particular one is actually a small plant, this can actually grow bigger with more pronounced foliage features. This particular bluish light green foliage has a lance arrow shaped leaf and thus called as Silver Sword.



Other factor:

I had replanted this using coco chips with a potting mix that includes 50% river sand. This requires a fast draining medium also I use osmocote as fertilizer for this one. The growth is slow but it had doubled up it size and had grown taller.


Do click on my link below for more detailed information concerning on
How to Care & Cultivate Philodendron Plant:

Philodendron - Best Indoor Plants







Philodendron Birkin

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Characteristics:

At first glance - I thought I saw a variegated of Canna Lily but now realized that this is actually a Philodendron species. This one is very much behaves in a central crown upward growth unlike other versions that trails and climbs like a pothos. 

Philodendron Birkin appears to have a dark green foliage with pin stripes in the shades of cream & yellow. The leaves are in oval shape but the foliage tend to loose it's variegation features when the leaves gets older.




Also this is a slow growing plant and may require good fertilizing regime for it to expand new growth. The foliage can last for many months - I had not seen any of the leaves turning yellow or dry off. Indeed it is a long lasting plant.


Due to it's crown central growth, propagating it from cutting can be challenging as it does not form a vine, however small plantlets may appear from the base of the rootball when the plant had grown bigger in a matured form.


Other than that, it is a stable plant that I would consider it hardy. The watering should not be overwhelming rather just lightly to keep the medium moist. Also finding an ideal place for it that it receive enough bright indirect light.

Once the plant had acclimatize and had adjusted itself in its environment - it is fairly an easy going plant to cultivate.



Do click on my link below for more detailed information concerning on
How to Care & Cultivate Philodendron Plant:

Philodendron - Best Indoor Plants


Philodendron Bipennifolium

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Characteristics:

Philodendron Bipennifolium also known as Horsehead Philodendron seemed to have a bluish green sheen coloration in its foliage - it does not have any other variegated coloration or tones rather flush with a singular color.

There are a huge confusion and contention with the ID and identifying them as this particular philodendron tends to morph totally into a different foliage structure hence the confusion begins.
Often incorrectly mislabelled as Philodendron panduriforme.

More information concerning this in this link below:
Philodendron bipennifolium Schott ex Endl



Almost similar to Burle Marx vine structure but this one is a slow growing plant and may tend to lose it foliage if it doesn't receive adequate light. Also care must be given on the watering regime - since the growth is slow, too much water may cause root & stem rot.


Do click on my link below for more detailed information concerning on
How to Care & Cultivate Philodendron Plant:

Philodendron - Best Indoor Plants

Schismatoglottis wallichii

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Schismatoglottis wallichii, I still cannot find any common name on this one so far.

I have not able to find it's common name, Schismatoglottis wallichii appears to to a native plant in my region. This species is native to Borneo, Peninsular Malaysia, Sumatra and Thailand where it grows under the canopy of a thick dense jungle in between fallen leaves and swampy areas.

Characteristics:

The foliage have a oblong shape where the leaf contain wrinkles (fan like folds) with a heart shaped coloration light green band around the foliage perimeter. Truly it does have a beautiful ornamental feature and have a very stable structure where the leaves doesn't get damaged by burns or bitten by pest.


LIGHT:

I find it works best in indirect bright light - the balance seemed to be very optimum for this one.

MEDIUM:

A Balance mix of potting mix together with sand (50%) to give the fast draining medium. Often I find this succumb to rot at the root base during long period of heavy rain at year end - I realized that this one can't stand being too wet. However, it does bounce back once the rain season is over.

WATERING:

Adequate watering but not too much as it can root the rootball.


FERTILIZER:
I find the foliar liquid fertilizer works best for this of which I apply for all my foliage plants. This plant does grow slowly but once it established itself - I will span out wider to over all the ground areas and so do take note that space is needed for this one to stretch out.


PROPAGATION:

I find the best so far is pup division appearing from the base of the plant - new plantlets appears from there to form a new colony.

PEST:

I had come across mealy bugs & scale insect appearing on the back of it's leaves but it easily eradicated by pruning and washing. I had stopped using pesticide in my garden as I don't want to use any chemical in my garden. At best - I do look out to use home-made organic pesticide as I don't want to disturb the ecology in my garden.


I would say this plant is very ideal to cultivate in shaded area in the garden where bright direct sunlight is unavailable. The foliage appears to be stable without discoloration where the lighting dictates the pigmentation of the foliage.

Unlike Dieffenbachia or Agloanema where bright indirect light is required to add colors in it's variegated form - this one doesn't behave as such.


Another interesting feature is the fading of the foliage - the whole leaf turns to cream yellow and truly it is a sight to behold to see such a coloration.


This particular one is an ariod and have it's inflorescent similar like any other ariod features.

Monstera adansonii

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I had fallen in love with this hollow leaved one.

Commonly known as Swiss Cheese Vine. This is a tricky one.

The leaves continues to morph and change according to the age & growth of the plant and somehow it's often confused with different species names based on the leaf types but its all actually from the same plant.


However, I'm thinking that this may continue to remain in this size and may never grow bigger unless it had attached itself upon a totem and perhaps may expand it's size but as for now - I had really do not have space to entertain giant size plants.



It is going to be a challenge that once this plant established itself against a wall, removing their roots may cause a huge problem as they can be damaging on the structure - I prefer not to create a new problem for that beauty sake.

The best alternative will be a totem - a pole covered with coconut husk may does the trick - however it still going to take space in setting up in that order.



I had been growing this one for few years but had not found it's size not getting any bigger from the medium leaf shape. However this plant is a slow grower and the growth is more based as longer vine growth than bigger leaf size.




These are what I had found sold in the nurseries - the plant is very much in this uniform shape, almost palm sized foliage plant.  They do grow cascading downwards like a trailing vine.


How to Care for a Monstera Plant:

The Main Key Element:
Bright Indirect Light, Fast Draining Medium & Well Balanced Watering Regime.This dictates the success of growth & maintenance of this particular genus.

Similar to a Philodendron species care,these require bright indirect light with good humidity.
It's a tropical plant and therefore adequate watering is necessary.

The best way is to observe how it behaves in your living space and handle care as what is required.

After sometime (in few months) the plant will adjust to the surrounding and acclimatize. Just make sure the optimum ideal watering regime and good lighting is available for this plant. This one requires good bright indirect light - too dark and it would succumb to root-rot or crown rot.

Too bright (as exposed too much to sun) may cause foliage burns.
The plant can face shock and may shed off it leaves.


How to Propagate a Monstera Plant Cutting:

Unlike most plants, this one rarely form seeds.
The best practical way to propagate them is through stem cuttings. The only setback is that this one is considered more sensitive and so more care is required as the cutting do not succumb to stem rot.

1) Always (I mean the Emphasis) Sterile the Tools before using them.
You can either wash them first soap and soak the cutting tool (scissors or knife) with alcohol or heat up on fire.
Again, do not immediately use a hot burning scissors, wait for it to cool down.
(I almost forgot and was about to cut a plant - almost cooked it in the process)

2) Rooting in Water.
To change the water often on daily basis if you are rooting the cutting in water. This will keep the water fresh from harboring bacteria that might cause further damage in stem or root rot.

3) Gentle on the New Roots
Keep the medium ready, Put in the plant first and pour in the medium and compress gently. I had seen people roughly force the cutting into a hardened potted medium and the stem snaps in that process.

I'm pretty sure its had been updated, reclassified and some new cultivar and species been discovered.
The one thing that make a difference is to chose and have a collection based on what pleases you and the availability of space and plant management on your side.

4) IF YOU RECEIVE MONSTERA CUTTING WITH ROOTS:

Do carefully check if the roots are long, firm and healthy. If there are more than 2 visible roots and the roots had spread out with more branching smaller roots than it's ideal to plant it in a medium.
Usually the most ideal Medium used is coco chunk bits
IF you do not have the coco chunks, alternatively you use a balance mixture of perlite, cocopeat, cactus/succulent mix - these should feel coarse and must be fast draining yet able to retain moisture.
Too dry the plant will look withered and you may have to balanced it out with cocopeat.
Too wet and the root rot might set in - and it will cause the leaves to turn yellow and fall out and kill the plant.
This actually require for you to check on the watering regime - to check & balance what is the best ideal condition in your garden / indoor location.

5) IF YOU RECEIVE MONSTERA CUTTING WITHOUT ROOTS:

This is quite difficult and tricky but not impossible.
The NO:1 enemy is root rot - These plants succumb to root-rot easily compared to other genes.
And so, great care need to be observed as not to get them rotting.

a) Wash the plant with a gentle disinfectant, the best will be fungicide.

b) Important - Root the Monstera in water First before planting a cutting in a medium without roots.
This will ensure the cut stump doesn't start to rot (if planted in a medium where bacteria and fungus exist - the course of nature takes place you are not able to see if there is a rot until it's too late)

c) Action can be taken immediately when you can notice the plant rotting in water.
You can immediately trim off the infected part & treat it before the infection gets bad.
Also do not use chlorinated tap water - the best is rainwater.
If you can't get it at least use filtered or mineral water.

d) Change the Water often

e) Rooting Hormone
I had seen some gardeners had tried using rooting hormone diluted in the water and their success rate very high - do experiment this on other cuttings first as getting the right on this experiment takes few trial factor. Sometimes the rooting hormone can speed up the rotting process faster if in checked on them daily - so do handle this on a caution note.

Monstera sp "Peru"

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Characteristics:

The foliage appears in very dark green coloration with wrinkled features, it is puckered & iridescent with thick leaves. I had mistaken it - looking at it as first glance that it is a piper species but this one does not have fragrance on it's foliage.


Actually the name is a misnomer.
It now identified as Monstera sp "Peru" but really it is not a true Monstera species.

It is also known as:
Epipremnum pinnatum marble planet
Monstera Kartenianum

After doing some research on this particular plant:

The plant is actually called Monstera Kartenianum originally 
but some rumors had gone around for awhile alleged that this is originated from Peru and unofficially labelled as Monstera Peru. 

By then, the plant market started selling this plant with this label and the trend had taken place with this identity as a popular ID plant name rather than the true plant ID.



The foliage does grow larger in oblong shape when planted together on a totem. I noticed that this only happens when the plant is allowed to grow climbing over and may not reach the bigger size when left on the pot without a trailing support.

However, this plant does grow cascading downward - trailing like a vine with roots are each leaf nodes and may sprout out new shoots when grown as ground cover.

Just like most of this kind - this is a slow growing plant and so care must be given as not to overwhelm it with too much watering and feeding.


These are what I had found sold in the nurseries - the plant is very much in this uniform shape, almost palm sized foliage plant.  They do grow cascading downwards like a trailing vine.


How to Care for a Monstera Plant:

The Main Key Element:
Bright Indirect Light, Fast Draining Medium & Well Balanced Watering Regime.This dictates the success of growth & maintenance of this particular genus.

Similar to a Philodendron species care,these require bright indirect light with good humidity.
It's a tropical plant and therefore adequate watering is necessary.

The best way is to observe how it behaves in your living space and handle care as what is required.

After sometime (in few months) the plant will adjust to the surrounding and acclimatize. Just make sure the optimum ideal watering regime and good lighting is available for this plant. This one requires good bright indirect light - too dark and it would succumb to root-rot or crown rot.

Too bright (as exposed too much to sun) may cause foliage burns.
The plant can face shock and may shed off it leaves.


How to Propagate a Monstera Plant Cutting:

Unlike most plants, this one rarely form seeds.
The best practical way to propagate them is through stem cuttings. The only setback is that this one is considered more sensitive and so more care is required as the cutting do not succumb to stem rot.

1) Always (I mean the Emphasis) Sterile the Tools before using them.
You can either wash them first soap and soak the cutting tool (scissors or knife) with alcohol or heat up on fire.
Again, do not immediately use a hot burning scissors, wait for it to cool down.
(I almost forgot and was about to cut a plant - almost cooked it in the process)

2) Rooting in Water.
To change the water often on daily basis if you are rooting the cutting in water. This will keep the water fresh from harboring bacteria that might cause further damage in stem or root rot.

3) Gentle on the New Roots
Keep the medium ready, Put in the plant first and pour in the medium and compress gently. I had seen people roughly force the cutting into a hardened potted medium and the stem snaps in that process.

I'm pretty sure its had been updated, reclassified and some new cultivar and species been discovered.
The one thing that make a difference is to chose and have a collection based on what pleases you and the availability of space and plant management on your side.

4) IF YOU RECEIVE MONSTERA CUTTING WITH ROOTS:

Do carefully check if the roots are long, firm and healthy. If there are more than 2 visible roots and the roots had spread out with more branching smaller roots than it's ideal to plant it in a medium.
Usually the most ideal Medium used is coco chunk bits
IF you do not have the coco chunks, alternatively you use a balance mixture of perlite, cocopeat, cactus/succulent mix - these should feel coarse and must be fast draining yet able to retain moisture.
Too dry the plant will look withered and you may have to balanced it out with cocopeat.
Too wet and the root rot might set in - and it will cause the leaves to turn yellow and fall out and kill the plant.
This actually require for you to check on the watering regime - to check & balance what is the best ideal condition in your garden / indoor location.

5) IF YOU RECEIVE MONSTERA CUTTING WITHOUT ROOTS:

This is quite difficult and tricky but not impossible.
The NO:1 enemy is root rot - These plants succumb to root-rot easily compared to other genes.
And so, great care need to be observed as not to get them rotting.

a) Wash the plant with a gentle disinfectant, the best will be fungicide.

b) Important - Root the Monstera in water First before planting a cutting in a medium without roots.
This will ensure the cut stump doesn't start to rot (if planted in a medium where bacteria and fungus exist - the course of nature takes place you are not able to see if there is a rot until it's too late)

c) Action can be taken immediately when you can notice the plant rotting in water.
You can immediately trim off the infected part & treat it before the infection gets bad.
Also do not use chlorinated tap water - the best is rainwater.
If you can't get it at least use filtered or mineral water.

d) Change the Water often

e) Rooting Hormone
I had seen some gardeners had tried using rooting hormone diluted in the water and their success rate very high - do experiment this on other cuttings first as getting the right on this experiment takes few trial factor. Sometimes the rooting hormone can speed up the rotting process faster if in checked on them daily - so do handle this on a caution note.

Philodendron Hederaceum "Micans"

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Characteristics:

This particular philodendron:
Philodendron hederaceum var. hederaceum ‘Micans’ commonly known as velvet leaf Philodendron or famously known as "Mican"

This particular one is a trailing type similar to a potho characteristics, an aroid native to Mexico.
The foliage has iridescent deep green and velvety feel and slightly have yellow-orange to burgundy tones when exposed to bright lighting. 



Almost similar to most trailing type philodendron, this vining type is a slow growing plant and may tend to lose it foliage if over-stressed. Also care must be given on the watering regime - since the growth is slow, too much water may cause root & stem rot. 

The right balance of adequate light, watering and feeding can ensure the best result for this one.


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How to Care & Cultivate Philodendron Plant:

Philodendron - Best Indoor Plants


Scindapsus pictus cv. Platinum

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This is known as Scindapsus pictus cv. Platinum

I believe this is fairly new in the market, it is a full sheen of a silvery -green tone where the foliage is void of any spots or pattern. The colors are very much similar to Philodendron hastatum, this one is very much on the grey notes. Also these silver-grey colored crystalline leaves do shimmer when tilted at an angle under light.

There is slight green tones on the midrib veins but not very visible.

For that reason, the name 'Platinum' was chosen because both platinum and this plant are metallic silver-grey in color and rare in nature.


The other factor is that similar to most climbing, trailing ariod the foliage pattern and colors may change and varies according to lighting and growth conditions. When they grow bigger, the colors and the leaf size and shape may change and varies.


I wouldn't recommend to say that their growing condition is similar to pothos. I find pothos are much hardier and easy to care for compared to Scindapsus.
This one is a slow growing and may easily die if the right balance is not given for it.
As for now: This is how I care for it - 


Potting Mix:

50% potting mix together with coconut chips. I find this medium is very safe and low risk compared to so many that I tried before. The coconut chips had be trimmed in small bite size pieces and slghtly packed with top soil (basic potting mix)

It is important to NOT to over-pot the plant - do keep this plant compact and let it overgrow the pot slowly and repot to another pot slightly bigger.



WATERING:

Because of this potting medium - I really do not have to worry so much about over watering as the medium is fast draining.


FEEDING:

I find this is very important - a wrong fertilizer can kill this plant and the whole this over: The stress and the leaf drop and burned leaves - It is too late to undo the mistake.

I would really recommend to pay attention to use of fertilizer - do not use any strong fertilizers on them, rather work on with the light and weak application of the feeding regime and slowly notice how the plant reacts to the growth condition and maintaining it to an optimum level is really helpful.

I for one use: Osmocote and alternatively use seaweed solution for good strong root growth. I also realized that this is a slow growing plant and so a lot of patience is needed.


LIGHT:

I keep this is in a bright shade area - too hot and may burn the leaves, too shaded and the leaves will  turn to yellow as lacking sunlight. I had noticed at times, Satin Pothos curl off the leaves - these happens when they are in stress.


PROPAGATION:

The most ideal, high success rate of propagating this one would be air layering and letting the roots to trail to another potting mix and once the roots established - the plant can trimmed of from the mother plant. I find it doesn't not fair well when it comes to cuttings - they do tend to rot and wither away.

Also I had noted that they don't fair well when placed totally in water alone (like pothos trimmed and placed in a jar or vase) this one seemed to rot and rarely root.


Other than that,
This can be a beautiful elegant plant to cultivate as an indoor plant, similar behavior like the rest of the Scindapsus pictus species.

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